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Godzilla's Revenge: A Raw Trad Test on Strawberry Peak

Los Angeles, California United States
roof crux
runout
fragile rock
pitons
vintage gear
mentally demanding
angelas national forest
Length: 600 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
Godzilla's Revenge
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A challenging trad climb on Strawberry Peak, Godzilla's Revenge offers a tough roof crux followed by runout pitches over demanding terrain. It’s a mental and physical test set against the rugged backdrop of the Angeles National Forest."

Godzilla's Revenge: A Raw Trad Test on Strawberry Peak

Stretching over five demanding pitches and climbing approximately 600 feet, Godzilla's Revenge cuts a striking figure on Strawberry Peak within the Angeles National Forest. This route offers a gritty, unpolished trad experience that challenges climbers both physically and mentally. The first pitch grabs your full attention—the roof here is unmistakably the physical crux, demanding precise technique and a strong grip to pull through the overhang. After overcoming this immediate obstacle, the experience shifts into a tense negotiation with the rock. The following pitches are marked by long runouts on sections of rock that occasionally feel brittle, urging climbers to maintain focus and composure. It’s a true test of trust in your gear and your own boldness.

The rock quality varies, with some sections feeling fragile underfoot or hand, so a careful approach is essential. Protection here is unconventional by modern standards: this climb predates the widespread use of cams and nuts, relying instead on pitons, swamis, and Kronhoffers. While recent additions of bolts have been reported on the first pitch, the remainder remains wild and runout, delivering an emotional challenge that gnaws at confidence long after the technical moves have passed. This is not a climb for the faint-hearted or the unprepared.

Strawberry Peak itself sits within the Angeles National Forest, a rugged area prized for its relative proximity to Los Angeles and its diverse climbing options. The approach to Godzilla’s Revenge is straightforward but requires a mindful pace, as the trail meanders through forested segments and occasional rocky open zones. Morning light filters through pines, adding an earthy scent that mingles with the crisp mountain air—nature daring you forward, every step a preparation for the climb awaiting you.

Gear up with a solid rack emphasizing vintage-style protection, but it’s smart to bring an assortment of modern camming devices to cover the variability in crack sizes. Helmets and attention to loose rock are mandatory. Timing your ascent for cooler months or early mornings helps reduce exposure to sun and heat, enhancing grip and focus. Though the climb’s attitude is classic and raw, your preparation can elevate the experience from stressful to exhilarating.

Godzilla’s Revenge isn't purely a physical puzzle; it invites introspection. Each pitch unfolds like a narrative of grit and perseverance, where trust in your abilities mingles with respect for the mountain. Climbing here demands self-reliance, but rewards with unmatched satisfaction when the summit vantage opens a sweeping panorama of the Los Angeles Basin. You leave with more than a notch in your logbook—there’s a story of facing uncertainty head-on and pulling through.

For climbers ready to engage with a route that is as much about mental endurance as it is about strength, Godzilla’s Revenge offers a raw slice of trad climbing history shaped by its gear legacy and the challenge of runout terrain. Prepare well, stay sharp, and the mountain will teach you exactly what it means to earn a line on its face.

Climber Safety

Falling on this route carries considerable risk due to sparse protection and loose rock in places. Helmets are essential, and climbers should carefully test handholds and footholds before trusting them. The descent involves hiking from the summit; be prepared for uneven terrain and watch for potential loose stone sections on the approach and exit trails.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches5
Length600 feet

Local Tips

Start your climb early to avoid the afternoon heat baking the exposed rock.

Wear a helmet; rock quality is variable with loose sections on upper pitches.

Prepare for runouts and place protection carefully, especially beyond pitch one.

Approach via the established trail through Angeles National Forest, allow at least 1.5 hours for the hike in.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 R grade reflects a climb where the crux is not only physical but mental, largely due to significant runouts and occasional brittle rock. The roof on the first pitch demands solid technique, and while the grade might seem approachable, the emotional weight of protection and rock quality pushes the difficulty beyond a standard 5.9. Compared to other local routes in Angeles National Forest, this climb feels stiffer due to the runout nature and older protection style.

Gear Requirements

Originally climbed before cams and nuts became standard, gear placements include pitons, swamis, and Kronhoffers. Recent bolts have been added on the first pitch, but the majority relies on traditional protection. Bring a full trad rack with emphasis on smaller gear and vintage accessory placements.

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Tags

roof crux
runout
fragile rock
pitons
vintage gear
mentally demanding
angelas national forest