"Glow in the Dark delivers a hands-on, two-pitch sport climb along the southern arete of Devil's Head. It blends technical sequences and manageable terrain, ideal for climbers stepping up their game in a scenic Colorado setting."
Glow in the Dark offers climbers a focused, approachable sport route carved into the southern arete of Devil's Head, just outside the bustle of South Platte, Colorado. This two-pitch climb stretches across 140 feet of featured rock, balancing technical sequences and moderate movement, making it an inviting choice for climbers moving up from beginner to intermediate levels. The first pitch kicks off on the left edge of the southern arete, encouraging hands-on contact with textured chickenheads and underclings that demand mindful footwork and steady positioning. Climbers will find themselves transitioning between small ledges, each offering brief moments to gather breath while the rock keeps the rhythm alive. The crux arrives on the headwall, where confident body positioning and a few well-chosen holds make all the difference to send the pitch at a friendly 5.8-. After reaching a solid stance with an anchor protected by a dozen bolts, the second pitch carries you up easier terrain before concluding with a steeper, short headwall. This finish, rated 5.7, requires precision and focus despite its brevity, offering a satisfying conclusion to the climb’s steady progression.
The route’s location on Devil's Head means it benefits from a southern aspect, receiving ample sunlight throughout the day, warming the rock and lengthening comfortable climbing windows during cooler seasons. However, caution is advised on the second pitch’s top: the stance is less than ideal, demanding careful movement and planning for descent. The rappelling strategy here is especially important. Climbers should consider combining the two pitches on lead to avoid awkward anchors, then lower off after the first pitch and clean the climb from the top of pitch two, before retreating safely via rappel. Two rappels are needed for descent if done directly, but a single 60-meter rope can make a westward rappel efficient, with knots tied to prevent rope ends slipping.
Glow in the Dark requires simply draws for quick and confident clipping, with bolts well-spaced to maintain safety and flow. The route is a solid introduction to longer sport climbs in the area, set in a relaxed, scenic environment where pine trees frame views of the South Platte valley below. Unlike more crowded routes nearby, this climb offers a quieter experience with easy access and manageable approach trails.
Approach is straightforward from the Devil's Head trailhead, with a moderate 10 to 15-minute hike over rocky and dirt terrain. The path steadily ascends, weaving through forest patches and open clearings where the breeze carries the scent of pine resin. GPS coordinates place the climb at 39.2564 latitude and -105.08926 longitude, making it simple to locate even for visitors new to the area.
For those venturing here, packing hydration and sturdy climbing shoes will pay dividends, especially since the climb’s varied holds demand precise footwork. Early morning or late afternoon sessions offer the best light and temperature balance, with fewer climbers on route and a chance to connect with the mountain’s quiet pulse. With its blend of moderate challenge, scenic setting, and straightforward logistics, Glow in the Dark stands as a practical yet inspiring entry on any Colorado sport climber’s agenda.
The upper stance on pitch two is cramped and unstable, so plan carefully whether leading or following. When rappelling, always tie knots at rope ends to prevent accidental slippage, and be mindful of rope drag when lowering to the base.
Lead both pitches in one go to avoid the tricky stance at the top of pitch two.
Use a 60m rope with knots tied to prevent rappels from slipping off the ends.
Best climbed during cooler months or early mornings to avoid strong sun on the southern aspect.
Bring sufficient water, as the approach offers limited natural water sources.
Equip with quickdraws for the 12 bolt-protected pitches. A single 60-meter rope suffices for rappel, but tie knots to secure ends. No additional trad gear is necessary.
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