"Glorious Gardens offers a crisp 60-foot trad crack climb on Aeroperro Wall that balances technical hand jams with a gritty finish. This pitch challenges climbers to master gear placements and crack technique beneath the towering pines of the San Bernardino range."
Glorious Gardens invites climbers into a straightforward, yet technically engaging 60-foot trad pitch on the Aeroperro Wall of the San Bernardino Mountains. The climb begins with a broad crack that immediately demands attention, offering secure hand jams before tapering into a flaring hand crack lined with subtle, challenging features. As you ascend, the crack’s shape shifts beneath your hands, requiring thoughtful gear placements and steady technique to maintain forward momentum. This pitch culminates at a small ledge, where the route diverges. Choosing the leftward traverse along this ledge introduces a gritty finish—a dirty hand crack that tests finger strength and persistence before reaching bolted anchors. This optional ending is valued for its mix of technical crack climbing and the satisfaction of solid pro placement.
Located within the Children’s Forest area by Keller Peak and just outside Running Springs, the climb lies under the watchful presence of the San Bernardino Mountains. The wall faces east, bathing climbers in morning light that energizes the rock while offering shade from the afternoon sun—ideal for spring and fall ascents when temperatures hover comfortably. The trailhead sits a manageable distance from the highway with a moderate approach through forested terrain, rewarding you with crisp mountain air and the faint sounds of distant wildlife.
Gear to protect this climb includes a rack covering wide cracks up to four inches, and a set of nuts complemented by cams. The placements are generally solid; however, the flaring hand crack section demands a practiced eye to find secure holds amid the subtle variations of the rock. The two-bolt anchor is reliable for rappelling, giving climbers a straightforward recovery route after the pitch.
This route’s rating at 5.10a reflects a technical standard that challenges hand crack technique more than sheer physical power. The initial wide crack provides a confident start, but the narrowing flaring section serves as the true obstacle—rewards come from patience, proper gear placement, and steady, deliberate movement. When compared to other climbs in the region, Glorious Gardens holds its own as a focused trad pitch that is approachable yet testing without being intimidating, making it a solid choice for climbers moving beyond beginner trad routes.
The surrounding climbing area is a relatively quiet pocket of the San Bernardino Mountains. Though accessible, it remains lightly trafficked, preserving a sense of discovery as you log a climb here. The forested approach trail winds through pine and fir trees, and the scent of crisp mountain air accompanies your preparation. Seasonal changes bring gusts that play with the forest canopy, creating a soundtrack that encourages steady progress and quiet reflection.
For descent, rappelling from the two-bolt anchor is the safest and most direct method. The rappel is clean with well-maintained hardware, but care should be taken on the ledge traverse near the top—loose rock patches and dirt can make footing uncertain. Checking anchor integrity before descending is a must, as is wearing a helmet to guard against potential rockfall in this natural but unpolished environment.
In sum, Glorious Gardens is a straightforward, no-frills crack climb that delivers technical challenges wrapped in a serene mountain setting. It is ideal for trad climbers seeking to refine crack climbing skills while enjoying a peaceful mountain backdrop that demands focus, respect, and steady hands.
The ledge toward the top includes some loose rock and dirt, increasing the risk of slips or rockfall. Always wear a helmet and inspect anchor bolts carefully before rappelling down.
Approach via marked forest trail; expect about 20 minutes of moderate hike.
Bring clean shoes with solid edging for the crack’s tricky sections.
Start climbs early in the morning to avoid afternoon heat on the east-facing wall.
Watch for loose rock near the ledge traverse near the top; proceed cautiously.
A rack with cams up to 4 inches is essential to protect this crack climb. Expect secure placements but practice reading subtle flaring cracks and jam techniques. Two-bolt anchors provide a reliable rappel setup.
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