"Glide or Slide offers a concise but engaging trad climb tucked just off a roadside trail in Joshua Tree National Park. With a solid vertical crack and afternoon sun warming the stone, this route is ideal for climbers seeking a direct, manageable pitch close to the trailhead."
At the edge of Joshua Tree National Park lies Glide or Slide, a sharp and approachable trad climb that invites you to test your skills on a 25-foot vertical crack nestled among weathered roadside boulders. Starting just a short distance right of popular routes like Thrash or Crash and Grip or Slip, this route sits below the park’s characteristic rock formations where dry air and sun-soaked stone meet. The climb challenges with a straightforward crack system bordered by a large boulder you can use to stem your way upward before committing to the crack itself. The stone here is coarse and solid, offering reliable holds that reward careful footwork and steady hand jams as you progress past a wider section toward the top anchor.
Afternoon sun lightens the rock face, warming the granite and drying the surfaces that can still cling to dew or early morning chill. The approach is short and accessible from the road, making this a perfect choice if your time is tight or if you want to warm up on solid rock before tackling longer climbs deeper in the park. The exposure is low and the pitch modest but engaging, with enough variety in the crack to keep climbing fresh and fun.
Preparation is straightforward: gather a standard Joshua Tree rack focusing on cams sized to fit the crack’s variable width securely. Large cams are essential not only for placing solid gear but also for setting up a top-rope anchor safely. The proximity of the road means you’re never far from the trailhead, but this also means you’ll share this space often with day visitors or other climbers. Hydrate well—Joshua Tree's desert air quickly draws moisture from your body—and wear sturdy shoes designed for crack climbing to maintain precision and comfort on the gritty granite.
Approaching the route, you’ll find yourself immersed in the quiet power of the desert landscape. The wind channels softly through the boulders, carrying with it the scent of creosote and the hint of distant junipers. This climb offers both an accessible challenge and a window into the raw, elemental nature of the park’s rock. Whether you’re topping out for the view or returning to the shade of a nearby juniper grove, Glide or Slide delivers a crisp climbing experience grounded in practicality and elemental thrill.
Ensure all anchor placements are solid and double-check large cams, as the crack’s size transitions can make gear placements less intuitive. Watch footing around the boulder on the approach, as loose gravel is common near roadside access points.
Approach from the road near Hidden Valley Campground for an easy walk-in.
Start on the right side of the boulder to find comfortable stemming holds before moving onto the crack.
Afternoon climbs are best as the sun warms the granite, improving friction.
Carry plenty of water to combat the desert heat, even on short routes.
Bring a standard Joshua Tree rack with a focus on large cams for reliable protection and setting up a top-rope anchor. The crack varies in width but leans toward placements accommodating bigger cams.
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