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Gimp Verde: A Compact Slab Adventure on Tanner Dome

Wetmore, Colorado United States
slab
bolted hybrid
small cams
exposed runout
single pitch
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Gimp Verde
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Gimp Verde is a focused one-pitch slab climb on Tanner Dome’s Great Big Wall, blending bolted sections with small gear placements. Perfect for climbers seeking a concise adventure with technical footwork and subtle protective challenges."

Gimp Verde: A Compact Slab Adventure on Tanner Dome

Gimp Verde offers a focused, one-pitch climb that rewards both newcomers and seasoned climbers looking for a short but engaging route on Tanner Dome's Great Big Wall. Situated on the right side of this impressive wall in Oak Creek Canyon, the climb moves primarily across slabby terrain peppered with a few rock bulges and occasional cracks that demand steady footwork and smart gear placements. The bottom half of the climb features three well-spaced bolts, providing reliable security through its more technical sections. Above the bolts, the angle eases, but the protection thins out, requiring thoughtful use of small cams and a carefully slung horn to bridge the runout to the two-bolt anchor shared with the adjacent Hanging Judge route.

The approach to Gimp Verde rewards climbers with crisp mountain air and panoramic views typical of The Wet Mountains. The route's granite surface is solid but subtly textured, challenging climbers to maintain balance and precision through the slab moves. This is no boulder problem but demands a patient and methodical approach — the rock dares you to trust your feet and friction, while the intermittent cracks invite conservative placements to keep confidence high.

With a modest length of about 100 feet, this climb fits neatly into a half-day outing, perfect for those keen to experience Tanner Dome without committing to a multi-pitch grinding day. The combination of bolted and traditional protection creates a hybrid experience, offering security with the flexibility of route-finding occasionally needed in the unbolted sections. This blend suits climbers who appreciate a bit of variety in protection style without the complications of long carries or complex anchor systems.

Preparation is straightforward but important. Climbers should pack a standard trad rack including smaller cams (like a 0.5 cam), and quickdraws to clip the bolts efficiently. Climbing shoes with a sticky rubber sole will be critical for the slab, while a lightweight helmet is advised given the exposed terrain above the bolts. Timing your ascent during cooler parts of the day helps preserve grip and avoids the afternoon sun which can bake the rock.

The route’s setting in Oak Creek Canyon offers more than just climbing: hikers and climbers alike will enjoy the natural quiet, punctuated by dry forest scents and distant bird calls. As you ascend, pay attention to the subtle shifts in rock texture and the way sunlight plays across the granite, adding dimension to the climb’s technical demands.

To sum up, Gimp Verde stands out as an accessible, compact climb layered with subtle challenges. It’s not a route for seekers of sustained difficulty but rather for those who appreciate the finesse of slab climbing and the mental game of managing protection on runouts. Whether you’re topping out after your first trad lead or looking to sharpen slab skills, this climb offers a direct, rewarding encounter with Tanner Dome’s wild side.

Climber Safety

Above the last bolt, protection thins out significantly and requires careful gear placement—avoid falling in this section to prevent swinging or hitting the sparse ledge. The anchor is shared with Hanging Judge, so check communication with other parties before rappelling or descending.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Wear sticky rubber shoes for better slab friction.

Start early to avoid hot afternoon granite.

Use slings to reduce rope drag on the horn and cams.

Check gear placements above bolts carefully—the rock is solid but sparse there.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8- rating feels approachable but demands steady slab climbing technique. The lower bolted half provides confidence, while the runout above challenges with minimal holds and protection. Compared to similar slab climbs in the region, this route leans less on steep jamming and more on balance and foot precision.

Gear Requirements

Two small cams including a 0.5 cam are helpful to protect the runout above the bolts. Carry quickdraws for the four bolts and slings to extend placements or protect horns. Standard trad rack recommended for intermittent crack placements.

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Tags

slab
bolted hybrid
small cams
exposed runout
single pitch