HomeClimbingGhost Dance

Ghost Dance: A Crisp Sport Climb in The Ghosts, Alabama Hills

Lone Pine, California United States
sport climbing
desert
single pitch
east face
crisp edges
Alabama Hills
Length: ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Ghost Dance
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Ghost Dance offers a straightforward, single-pitch sport climb on the DXM Wall’s east face in the Alabama Hills. With steady edge pulls and solid rock, it’s a perfect route for climbers seeking a moderate yet rewarding desert challenge."

Ghost Dance: A Crisp Sport Climb in The Ghosts, Alabama Hills

Ghost Dance stands as a straightforward yet satisfying sport climb situated on the DXM Wall in the heart of the Alabama Hills, just a short drive from Lone Pine. This single-pitch route offers 5 bolts securing a clean, vertical face that challenges climbers with its steady edge pulls and subtle holds. The rock here feels solid beneath your fingers, textured just enough to keep your grip confident as you ascend. Unlike its more technical neighbors, Ghost Dance provides a more accessible climb for those looking to get their feet wet on quality sport routes without overly complex moves. The approach rewards you with sweeping views of the Eastern Sierra peaks, their rugged silhouettes framed by the warm desert sun.

The route’s name evokes a quiet rhythm—each move a deliberate step in a fluid sequence that demands control more than power. A small 2-inch piece of protection can be placed near the start if extra security feels right, but the bolts cover most of the crux efficiently. This climb suits guests keen on moderate difficulty, offering a clear, positive feeling amid the serenity of the high desert landscape.

Plan to bring five quickdraws and a standard rack with a small cam. The wall faces east, catching morning light perfect for early-day climbs before the afternoon heat settles in. The desert air is dry but invigorating, with occasional breezes that shift the sun-warmed rock into a comfortable temperature range. The approach trail from the parking area is easy to follow and brief, allowing you to focus on conserving strength for the climb itself.

As with all climbs in this region, hydration is essential—carry plenty of water and sun protection, especially during warmer months. Footwear with sticky rubber will enhance your hold on the moderate edges and smears. Ghost Dance is an ideal primer for climbers adapting to desert conditions while immersing themselves in the stark grandeur of the Alabama Hills.

Beyond the route itself, take a moment to absorb the unique landscape here: massive rounded boulders stretch along the horizon, the wind whispering through the rocky outcrops as the distant Sierra towers guard the skyline. This place invites focus and steady effort, a welcome balance between approachable challenge and quiet adventure.

Climber Safety

Though the bolts are well placed, the rock can feel brittle near the edges—avoid dynamic moves early on. Keep an eye out for loose debris on the belay ledge and carry enough water to compensate for the dry air. The descent is straightforward but watch for loose scree on the trail back to the parking lot.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat; the route faces east and enjoys morning light.

Hydrate well and use sun protection—there’s minimal shade on the approach or climb.

Wear climbing shoes with sticky rubber to optimize edge grip on the face.

The approach is short and easy; expect about 10 minutes of walking on flat terrain from the parking area.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Ghost Dance sits comfortably in the moderate range, offering a grippy yet straightforward face climb. The grade feels true to its number, with no hidden cruxes elevating difficulty. It’s well suited for climbers familiar with solid sport routes but new to this desert environment. Compared to nearby climbs, it’s more approachable than the technical DXM Cracks but still delivers positive movement.

Gear Requirements

Bring five quickdraws and a small rack including a 2-inch cam for optional protection near the base. Five bolts provide secure placements along the face.

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Tags

sport climbing
desert
single pitch
east face
crisp edges
Alabama Hills