Gangrène presents a sharp, focused challenge for climbers drawn to the raw precision of trad climbing within Quebec’s Laurentians. Starting on the right side of a broad slab, the route immediately demands careful footwork as you approach a clean dihedral crack that carves its way upward. The initial moves require a steady balance between body tension and delicate smearing on the slab’s smooth face — a sensory interplay between solid rock and the quiet rustle of the surrounding forest pushing in from below.

The climb leads you to a boulder where you’ll recompose your strength before committing to the dihedral crack. This feature is a defining element, its angular edges inviting technical jams and careful placements. The crack itself runs like a line of defiance against the slab, compelling climbers to engage every finger and toe – the kind of climbing that demands quiet focus but rewards with the pure satisfaction of movement.

Toward the top, the route takes a sharp turn left in a traverse that sets up the crux: a diagonal crack running up an overhanging wall. Here, the physical demands spike; the angle pulls you outward and upward, needing precise gear and confident footwork to stay locked in. This section tests not only your strength but your mental composure—one slip could mean resetting your approach.

Ultimately, the climb finishes by gaining a ledge that serves as a natural platform to breathe in the dense, cool air and survey the quiet wilderness around Mont-King. This single-pitch route, at 60 feet, provides a neat encapsulation of Laurentian granite climbing — technical, a bit bold, and thoroughly absorbing.

For those planning a visit, lightweight rack selection focusing on Camalot #2 and smaller cams is essential, as placements favor precise gear over brute force. The approach lies within a rugged, forested section near Val-David, a locale known for its quiet trails and rugged charm. Timing your climb for morning or late afternoon allows you to avoid direct sun on the slab, preserving grip quality and comfort.

Gangrène isn’t just a route; it’s an invitation to test finger strength and delicate gearwork in a stunningly simple setting that commands respect. Don’t underestimate the crux or the need for precise protection—come prepared with confidence and patience, and this climb will reward you with a deeply earned summit moment.