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Ga-stoned Again: A Classic Sport Climb at Shelf Road

Canon City, Colorado United States
sport
5.9
face climb
stem
crack
layback
exposed
single pitch
volcanic rock
Length: 80 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Ga-stoned Again
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Ga-stoned Again invites climbers to tackle a distinct volcanic corner on Shelf Road with a blend of stem, face, and crack techniques. This crisp 5.9 sport climb offers smooth protection and memorable exposure, promising an accessible yet captivating challenge."

Ga-stoned Again: A Classic Sport Climb at Shelf Road

Ga-stoned Again offers an engaging sport climbing experience carved into the striking volcanic cliffs of Colorado’s Shelf Road. Starting roughly 100 yards to the right of Urban Fringe, the route launches from an obtuse corner defined by a serrated crack that beckons climbers upward. The rock is a mosaic of textures—black slabs to the right contrast with sharp edges and clean lines that demand precise footwork. As you ascend, the climb unfolds with a mix of stemming, face moves, and secure jams, each element testing your technique and focus. The exposure adds a thrilling edge without overwhelming, revealing broad views of the surrounding canyon that ripple with dry, sun-warmed air. Near the top, the crux presents itself as a layback move just before the final bolt, a move that rewards body tension and steady nerves. With excellent protection—11 bolts leading smoothly to a solid 2-bolt anchor—this route balances excitement and safety, making it a perfect challenge for moderately experienced climbers aiming to push their 5.9 skills. Given the nearly flawless rock quality and the sustained nature of the climb, it’s quickly gaining favor as one of Shelf’s standout routes. Climbing here means preparing for a moderately steep approach, bringing shoes that handle a variety of textures, and strategizing gear for confident clipping. Timing your ascent for cooler parts of the day can also elevate your enjoyment, as the sun shifts shadows to keep the wall grippy and the heat in check. Whether you’re hunting a crisp, single-pitch sport route or looking to sharpen your crack and layback technique with reliable bolts, Ga-stoned Again delivers a clear, exhilarating line with no wasted moves.

Climber Safety

While the route features solid bolts and a clear anchor, climbers should be cautious during the layback crux as body positioning can feel awkward and holds may be sharp. The approach trail is stable but steeper near the base, so wear sturdy hiking shoes. Weather can rapidly shift, so check forecasts to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common to the region.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Approach the route from the main Shelf Road trailhead and follow well-marked paths for roughly a 10-minute walk.

Wear climbing shoes with stiff edges to handle the varied face and crack features.

Start early or late in the day to avoid peak sun; the route faces south and heats up quickly.

Double-check the anchor before rappelling for additional peace of mind during descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At a solid 5.9, Ga-stoned Again feels accurately graded with a cruxy layback near the top that demands sustained effort and precise technique. It’s approachable for climbers with consistent 5.9 experience but offers enough variety—stemming, jamming, face climbing—to keep it engaging. Compared to other local 5.9 routes, this climb leans slightly toward technical moves over sheer power.

Gear Requirements

Equipped with 11 bolts leading to a secure 2-bolt anchor, the protection on Ga-stoned Again is straightforward and reliable. Bring quickdraws to clip smoothly, and prepare for a short but sharp crux near the top requiring precise positioning.

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Tags

sport
5.9
face climb
stem
crack
layback
exposed
single pitch
volcanic rock