5.10c, Trad
Squamish
Canada
"Futurama is a focused trad route in Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs that blends delicate crack climbing with technical footwork. This single pitch offers a compact challenge that demands precision and steady protection placements."
Futurama offers a focused burst of technical trad climbing that demands precision and calm from start to finish. Located within the rugged edges of The Smoke Bluffs in Squamish, this single-pitch route climbs 70 feet of steep, varied rock showcasing delicate crack climbing and subtle footwork. The approach already hints at the challenge ahead as you move into an area marked by rough granite faces and sharp angles, framed by towering pines and the ever-present backdrop of coastal mountains.
The climb begins just left of the Juneuary route, near a lone bolt that provides the initial protection. From here, you clip the bolt and traverse right toward the first crux, a diagonal thin crack that requires steady fingers and calculated moves. The crack twists, leading back left into a second thin line that intersects with the initial one, forcing climbers to carefully negotiate a unique diagonal sequence reminiscent of Juneuary but with its own distinct rhythm.
About halfway up, the route eases into a ledge beneath the top band — a brief moment to gather your strength. But Futurama isn’t done testing you. To earn your ascent, you must step rightward onto a headwall that challenges balance and foot placement with minimal handholds. Smooth, deliberate foot cross-throughs on flaring seams here form the second crux, demanding confidence in your footwork as you push through sections with brittle grips and blank patches.
Protection on Futurama is minimal but thoughtfully arranged — two bolts anchor the climb, supplemented by gear placements up to one inch. This mix of fixed hardware and small gear keeps the route engaging and places an emphasis on solid trad skills, especially when considering some placements require careful judgment in fragile seams.
The Smoke Bluffs, a renowned climbing zone in Squamish, sits in a unique coastal rainforest environment. Its granite cliffs offer a cool, shaded backdrop during the summer months, though early season and fall bring ideal weather patterns that favor dry rock and pleasant temperatures. The area has enough remoteness to feel like an outdoor playground while still providing easy access and established trails.
Approaching the route is a short hike through dense pine and fir, over terrain marked by moss and loose stone patches. Expect a roughly 10-minute walk from the main parking area to the base, with clear signage leading you through the granite boulder fields. Once on the wall, the descent is straightforward—downclimb carefully on the easier sections adjacent to Futurama or rappel from anchors, taking care on the slabby rock to avoid loose debris.
For those stepping onto Futurama’s granite face, preparation is key. Good climbing shoes with sensitive edging will make the difference on tight foot placements; be sure to pack a standard trad rack emphasizing smaller cams and nuts, especially gear that fits cracks up to an inch wide. Timing your climb for mid-morning to mid-afternoon takes advantage of the route’s east-facing aspect, ensuring optimal light and warmth without overheating.
Futurama is a compact but demanding climb that rewards calm technicality instead of raw power. It suits climbers ready to sharpen their crack skills in a stunning coastal forest setting. Whether eyeing this climb as a stepping stone to harder Smoke Bluffs routes or as a single pitch adventure, it offers a meaningful challenge framed by one of Canada’s prime granite playgrounds.
Watch out for the blank sections near the top headwall where footholds are sparse and handholds minimal. Double-check all gear placements, especially in flaring seams where pro can feel less secure. Downclimbing is possible but requires caution on loose rock and slabby terrain.
Approach via the main Smoke Bluffs parking area, then follow well-marked trails for about 10 minutes.
Wear climbing shoes with precise edging to handle thin cracks and smooth foot placements.
Start your climb mid-morning when the wall gets direct sunlight but remains cool.
Check your gear carefully—some pro placements require careful placement in flaring seams.
Two bolts secure the start and mid-section, with additional placements required up to 1 inch. Bring small cams and nuts to complement the fixed hardware. Expect to place gear strategically in thin diagonal cracks and seams where protection is sparse but essential.
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