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Funny Face at Suicide Rock: A Sport Climb with Sharp Moves and Bold Lines

Idyllwild, California United States
sport climbing
single pitch
granite face
crack and chimney start
crux move
limited protection
sun exposure
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Funny Face
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Funny Face blends technical crack climbing with a bold face crux, offering a compact 50-foot sport line on Suicide Rock. Its sparse bolt protection highlights the need for precise footwork and clean clipping in this classic California granite route."

Funny Face at Suicide Rock: A Sport Climb with Sharp Moves and Bold Lines

Carving a path up Suicide Rock’s notorious granite, Funny Face offers a compact but compelling experience for sport climbers who crave tactical moves paired with classic California facesetting. This single pitch climbs roughly 50 feet, beginning where a crack and chimney sit tucked just right of Crater Face, challenging climbers to engage both power and finesse to make the transition onto the face itself. Once clipped into the first bolt, your focus shifts left to the climb’s crux — a delicate dance on black granite knobs that demand confident footwork and steady hands. The rock here is textured and bold, each hold etched into the face like natural footholds carved out by time and the elements, making every move precise and rewarding.

Though short in stature, Funny Face carries a punch with its 5.9 rating that feels true-to-grade, neither soft nor artificially inflated. The line’s bolt protection—just two 3/8-inch bolts—means the route respects the adventurous spirit, calling for clean clipping and commitment rather than an overreliance on fixed gear. A sharp eye for gear placements and smooth clipping will keep momentum flowing without hesitation.

Suicide Rock itself looms as a landmark of the California climbing scene, sitting amid the rugged spines of the San Jacinto Mountains. The approach traces moderate trails dotted with chaparral and pine, offering bursts of scent-heavy forest air and distant views that open toward the Coachella Valley's vast stretch of desert below. The climb’s south-facing wall catches morning sun, warming the granite and energizing early ascents; afternoons can cool down under the sporadic shade cast by nearby formations.

For climbers targeting this route, timing is everything. Early spring or late fall presents the sweet spot for temperature control and reliable weather, while summer ascents require caution around heat and sun exposure. Footwear with strong edging ability will make all the difference on the black knobs, where balance and subtle shifts push you upward. Hydration is essential—especially on the approach where the dry air races against any lingered moisture. With its straightforward length, Funny Face is an accessible yet purposeful outing, perfect as a warm-up or a focused challenge on a day dedicated to sport climbing at Suicide Rock.

The descent is straightforward—a simple walk off along a well-established trail leads back to the base, allowing tired climbers to collect themselves while soaking in the sprawling desert vista. As you linger at the bottom, the granite face catches the waning light, a silent reminder of the bold moves and precise balance required to own this line.

Climber Safety

Bolt protection is minimal with only two bolts, so ensure clipping is clean and mindful. The face features a few edges and knobs that feel solid but require precise movements; avoid rushing or forced moves that risk slip. The descent trail is well marked, but watch for loose stones near the base.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the established trail from Suicide Rock parking; allow about 20 minutes of moderate hiking.

Start climbs early to avoid direct sun on the south-facing wall, especially in summer.

Use climbing shoes with precise edging capabilities for the black granite knobs transition.

Stay hydrated and protect skin from sun exposure during warmer months.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At 5.9, Funny Face matches its difficulty well, neither overly generous nor unduly harsh. The crux left move onto the face tests delicate footwork and balance more than pure strength. Compared to other local climbs in Suicide Rock, it falls into the moderate difficulty range—accessible for intermediate climbers looking to refine technique without facing a crushing grade.

Gear Requirements

Two 3/8-inch bolts provide the primary protection on Funny Face. Their placement requires confidence in clipping and maintaining momentum, as gear is minimal and no additional traditional pro is necessary on this sport climb.

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Tags

sport climbing
single pitch
granite face
crack and chimney start
crux move
limited protection
sun exposure