HomeClimbingFunky McFunkerson

Funky McFunkerson: A Technical Test on Lake Arrowhead Pinnacles East

Lake Arrowhead, California United States
trad crack
roof crux
single pitch
east-facing
San Bernardino Mountains
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Funky McFunkerson
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Funky McFunkerson offers a sharp, one-pitch trad challenge on East Lake Arrowhead Pinnacles. Its twin cracks and a small roof crux require solid crack skills and careful gear placements, making it an engaging test for trad climbers seeking focused technical resistance."

Funky McFunkerson: A Technical Test on Lake Arrowhead Pinnacles East

Funky McFunkerson stakes its claim in the rugged San Bernardino Mountains as a compelling one-pitch trad climb that demands precision and respect. From the moment you set hands on the rock, you’re drawn into a narrow corridor of two parallel cracks rising sharply from the base. The climb’s character is etched in these features—each crack offering distinct challenges that require crack climbing skills and solid footwork.

The approach introduces you to the austere beauty of Lake Arrowhead Pinnacles East, where the air holds a fresh mountain chill and the surrounding pines murmur quietly in the wind. Starting off the ground, you quickly engage the rhythm of the cracks. The rock is weathered but solid, offering reliable holds—though the small roof near the middle marks the climb’s defining moment. Negotiating this section is the crux, demanding a blend of technique and power as you negotiate the patinas and transition smoothly back into the crack system.

This 50-foot climb finishes at well-maintained chain anchors positioned just to the right of the upper crack. The quality of protection plays a key role here; the route protects best with gear up to 3 inches, making it essential to carry a precise rack for efficient placements into the parallel crack structures.

The setting is remote enough to feel apart from the crowded Southern California crags, yet close enough to Lake Arrowhead town for convenient access and post-climb recovery. The rock faces eastward, catching morning light that warms the surface and helps dry the hold zones swiftly. Spring through early fall is the ideal window to attempt this climb, balancing pleasant temperatures with a lower chance of precipitation or slick conditions.

Whether you’re sharpening your trad skills or seeking a targeted challenge with a single pitch, Funky McFunkerson tests both your mental focus and tactical planning. Approach time is under 30 minutes from the main parking area, following a well-marked trail crossing mixed forest and rocky outcrops. Pay attention to solid climbing shoes with sticky rubber and bring adequate water—despite the manageable length, the effort on this climb, especially the crux, can spike your exertion quickly.

In summary, Funky McFunkerson is a focused trad climb that rewards preparation and precision. It’s neither a beginner’s playground nor an overly intimidating venture, but a route that invites climbers to engage fully with the rock, making every move purposeful and every hold earned.

Climber Safety

Watch the small roof section carefully—poor foot placement here can quickly sap strength. Chain anchors are solid, yet always double-check before lowering or rappelling. Be mindful of loose rock near the base during approach.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail is clear but rocky; wear sturdy footwear with good traction.

Start early to take advantage of morning sun warming the east-facing wall.

Bring a rack with precise cam sizes, especially in the 2 to 3 inch range.

Keep hydrated and pack light—this short climb can demand sustained effort at the crux.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a, Funky McFunkerson sits comfortably within the moderate trad range but features a distinct crux at the small roof that pushes the difficulty. The grade holds steady with no softening observed, making the climb ideal for those brushing up on sustained crack sequences with a brief but memorable technical move. Climbers familiar with nearby routes like ‘Snake Charmer’ will find comparable difficulty, though Funky McFunkerson is notable for its direct crack line and protection demands.

Gear Requirements

Ideal rack includes cams and nuts up to 3 inches to protect the twin cracks efficiently. Chain anchors at the top offer secure, straightforward anchors for rappel or top-rope setup.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Funky McFunkerson and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

trad crack
roof crux
single pitch
east-facing
San Bernardino Mountains