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Funkadelia Trad Climb at Motherlode Rock

Big Bear Lake, California United States
5.9
trad crack
single pitch
pine forest approach
bolted anchor option
face moves
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Funkadelia
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Funkadelia offers a focused, engaging trad pitch featuring a clean crack and technical face moves that challenge your gear skills and balance. Perfect for climbers seeking a short, varied climb in the San Bernardino Mountains."

Funkadelia Trad Climb at Motherlode Rock

Funkadelia offers a compact but rewarding trad climb in the heart of the San Bernardino Mountains’ Big Bear Lake area. This 50-foot route starts with a solid, distinctive crack that rises sharply for about 20 feet, demanding precise hand jams and trusting foot placements. Once the crack fades, a brief rightward traverse along secure flakes shifts the challenge, requiring steady balance and attention to body positioning. Beyond the flakes, the climb transitions into a mixed sequence of face and crack moves that lead you around the back of the crag, rewarding climbers with a quieter sense of accomplishment away from the main wall. Here, the rock holds a steady texture, affording good friction as you work upward to build your anchor.

Protection consists primarily of gear sized up to three inches, making it essential to bring a well-rounded rack with cams and nuts that fit diverse placements. The anchor at the top blends traditional gear with the option of tying into a nearby bolted anchor from the adjacent route ‘Reach for the Sky’—a reliable backup for those prioritizing security in descent.

Access to Funkadelia is straightforward from the established approach trails leading to Motherlode Rock’s West Face. The trail weaves through sturdy pine and scrub oak, with a short but occasionally steep section before reaching the base. With an elevation near 5,600 feet, the cool mountain air and filtered sunlight create a pleasant climbing environment most of the year, though mid-summer afternoons bring intense sun to the face.

This route suits climbers comfortable on moderate 5.9 trad terrain who want a short but versatile pitch with varied movement. It’s a perfect introduction to the Central Pinnacles ridgeline with enough technical interest to reward a sharp eye for gear placements and body tension. The surrounding wilderness compounds the experience with fresh scents of pine and the distant sound of forest wildlife, sparking a tangible connection to the wild beyond the wall.

Plan on sturdy climbing shoes, a moderate rack up to 3-inch cams, and a harness setup that supports both a traditional anchor build and clip-in to bolted protection. Hydration is key; despite the shaded trail in places, the sun can break through, especially on south-facing sections. Ideal climbing seasons stretch from late spring through early fall, avoiding winter’s chill and summer’s harsh midday heat. Keep an eye on weather forecasts for the San Bernardino Mountains, as sudden thunderstorms can arrive quickly in warmer months.

Descend carefully following established rappel points or downclimb cautiously where holds remain solid. Overall, Funkadelia invites climbers to connect directly with the rock—simple gear, steady moves, and a quiet atmosphere that emphasizes technique and flow over flashy moves or extreme endurance.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock in the flakes section during the right traverse; test holds carefully before committing weight. The anchor area requires attention to proper rigging practice, especially if relying solely on trad gear.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early in the morning to avoid afternoon sun on the south-facing wall.

Wear shoes with good edge control for the technical face sections.

Hydrate well—water sources are limited near the approach trail.

Check weather forecasts closely during summer for sudden storms.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating fits true to grade with a moderate crux during the face and crack sequence after the initial crack ends. Some may find the traverse adds subtle complexity that nudges the difficulty above a straightforward 5.8. Compared to nearby Holcomb Valley climbs, Funkadelia demands a balanced mix of crack technique and face climbing finesse.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad rack with cams up to 3 inches. The crack allows for solid placements early, but be prepared for smaller pro and nuts during the traverse. The anchor can be built with gear or clipped into bolts from 'Reach for the Sky'.

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Tags

5.9
trad crack
single pitch
pine forest approach
bolted anchor option
face moves