"Fungaphobia climbs high on White Mountain’s Northwest Buttress, weaving through mixed rock and ice pitches that test both skill and judgment. Early season conditions highlight this route’s dynamic character, inviting alpine climbers to navigate shifting terrain and stunning wilderness."
Rising sharply from the rugged terrain of White Mountain’s Northwest Buttress, Fungaphobia offers an alpine climb that bends between rock, ice, and mixed terrain—each pitch a fresh test of adaptability and skill. This is a route where the mountain’s raw personality shows clearly, especially early in the season before towering cornices cast their shadow and overhead hazards intensify. Starting its journey in a natural bowl, Fungaphobia demands respect for avalanche risk, a terrain element you can monitor from below with good optics before committing to the ascent.
The opening pitch sets the stage with engaging variability. You might find yourself tracing a free-standing ice pillar, navigating a snow-covered column, or switching to rock climbing—each option requiring a nimble approach and solid judgment. This lead climbs a ramp that channels upward to the base of the more sustained ice pitch rated WI3. When conditions align, this 18-meter pitch transforms into a slick playground of blue ice, inviting confident footwork and steady tools. But variable forms are common here, so flexibility in technique is key.
Beyond this, the route steers into a chimney that often sports forming ice but can demand traditional rock protection, including pins—a reminder that alpine climbing always keeps you alert to changing conditions. This chimney leads you to a spacious ledge, a brief moment of respite and a vantage point for the final push. From here, the climb transitions into straightforward terrain leading to the ridge’s crest, offering sweeping views that reward the effort with a sense of connection to the greater Yukon wilderness.
With five pitches covering approximately 650 feet, Fungaphobia strikes a balance of challenge and achievable progression for mixed alpine climbers. The rating of 5.6 with WI3 and M4 elements suggests a climb that is approachable yet demands respect—technical enough to sharpen skills without overwhelming, especially if you come prepared with a versatile rack.
Gear-up for all conditions. Bring a full suite of alpine equipment, including ice tools, crampons, rock protection, and pins to cover the route’s shifting nature. Don’t forget rappel gear, as retreat or descent requires firmer planning. Weather windows are tight; aim for early season climbs before the cornice hazards become precarious.
This climb invites those ready to engage with a true alpine environment—the crisp cold air, the evolving ice textures, and the rock that challenges your foothold and protection choices. Fungaphobia demands a blend of calm observation, patient move-reading, and exact execution. Proper preparation, solid alpine skills, and respect for the mountain’s ever-changing moods transform this climb from a route on a map into a vivid mountain experience.
Whether you’re aiming to sharpen mixed climbing techniques or seeking an approachable alpine adventure with a little edge, Fungaphobia delivers. It’s a gateway to the vast Yukon's vertical playground, a route where the climb and the landscape unfold in tandem—each step a dialogue between climber and mountain.
Avalanche potential at the route’s bowl-shaped start requires careful evaluation, especially after fresh snow. Cornice collapse dangers grow as the season progresses; avoid climbing late in the season. Pitch three’s chimney may require pins on dirty rock, so ensure your gear and placements are secure. Always have a clear rappel plan for descent.
Scout the bowl from below with binoculars to assess avalanche risk before heading up.
Plan your ascent early in the season to avoid unstable cornices overhead.
Bring pins along with standard trad gear to protect the chimney pitch safely.
Expect variable ice quality on the WI3 pitch—adjust your climbing style accordingly.
Prepare a comprehensive alpine rack: ice tools, crampons, mixed and rock protection including pins, and rappel gear. Conditions demand flexibility as pitches shift between ice and rock.
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