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Funeral March: Testing Your Offwidth Skills on Eldorado's West Ridge

Boulder, Colorado United States
offwidth
large cams
single pitch
aerobic
crack climbing
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Funeral March
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Funeral March offers climbers an essential workout in offwidth technique set on Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge. This single-pitch trad route delivers slow, controlled moves across a 6-inch splitter—perfect for those ready to push their crack climbing skills with large gear and steady bodywork."

Funeral March: Testing Your Offwidth Skills on Eldorado's West Ridge

Funeral March is a straightforward yet demanding test of offwidth climbing tucked into Eldorado Canyon's West Ridge, a sector renowned for stout cracks and inspiring exposure. If you’ve ever been curious about offwidths — where fists, heels, and even your entire body come into play as climbing tools — this route offers an accessible introduction without stepping overly far into the realm of technical obscurity. It’s not a long climb, just a single pitch, but what it lacks in length it more than makes up for in physicality and technique.

Approach the climb by hiking up to the Cirque of the Cracks area, a region marked by steep rocky ridges and solid walls that demand attention. The trail there rises steadily, giving climbers a chance to warm muscles and steady breath before stepping onto the rock. Funeral March sits just to the south side of the well-traveled Hand Crack route, identified by its imposing 6-inch wide splitter — a crack that feels as much like a moving puzzle as a climb. You’ll need a collection of large cams — think sizes #4 and #5 Camalots, Bigbros, or Tubechocks — to protect yourself adequately once you begin your upward push.

The route starts off with relatively familiar moves moving into the vertical face until a small roof or cap presents itself, heralding the limit of casual crack tactics. Here you’ll lean almost exclusively into the offwidth techniques: stacking fists, chicken-winging, heel-toe cams, and arm bars that engage your whole body. It’s a slow, deliberate climb, but one that rewards persistence with a surprising aerobic challenge despite its plodding rhythm. This isn’t the route to race — each move invites mindfulness and a tactile connection with the stone.

The climb’s rating of 5.9 reflects a modest technical difficulty that may feel softer or stiffer depending on your offwidth experience. Novices might find the sustained bodywork deceptively taxing, while veterans will appreciate it as a solid practice ground and an approachable intro to bigger, wider cracks nearby. Top anchors are conveniently located, making descent straightforward and safe.

In all, Funeral March offers a special kind of focus and intensity, a route that challenges your climbing versatility and body awareness. It’s not about speed or flashy moves — it’s about learning to move with commitment through a section of stone that demands respect and encourages growth. Pack your large cams, prepare for a slow burn, and savor a genuine slice of Eldorado Canyon climbing that stands out by being honest and direct.

Climber Safety

The crack’s size and angle mean you’ll place large protection that can sometimes be tricky in terms of placement confidence. Take your time assessing each piece to avoid drag or movement. The approach includes uneven footing and loose scree sections—good footwear and attentive footwork are essential. Be prepared for sudden weather changes common in Eldorado Canyon.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Expect a sustained aerobic challenge that comes from slow, body-intensive moves rather than quick bursts.

The approach trail includes a steady uphill to the Cirque of the Cracks; plan for 30-45 minutes of hiking with rock and scree.

Anchors at the top are easily accessible for a safe and straightforward rappel or walk-off descent.

Offwidth gear rentals or guidance can be arranged locally—contact experienced climbers nearby if new to this style.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Funeral March can feel deceptively easier or tougher depending on your offwidth familiarity. The technical crux is moving through the 6-inch splitter using body jamming, which can be strenuous if you’re new to these techniques. The rating holds fairly true but leans on fitness and patience more than finger strength. Compared to neighboring routes like Hand Crack, this climb demands steadier, slower control.

Gear Requirements

Carry a selection of large to huge camming devices—sizes #4 and #5 Camalots, Bigbros, and Tubechocks are ideal. The crack averages 6 inches wide, so standard smaller cams won’t protect well here. A comprehensive offwidth rack will make the climb safer and more comfortable.

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Tags

offwidth
large cams
single pitch
aerobic
crack climbing