"Fun with a Gun offers a sharp, 60-foot trad climb on Joshua Tree's North Side Echo Cove. It challenges with a mix of bolts and traditional placements on featured rock, perfect for those stepping into trad in a striking desert setting."
Fun with a Gun offers a compelling introduction to traditional climbing on the rugged North Side of Echo Cove in Joshua Tree National Park. This single-pitch route, stretching 60 feet, challenges climbers to engage with textured rock and a variety of natural features that demand focus and thoughtful protection placement. The climb begins just left of the better-known Fun Stuff route, where a well-placed bolt invites you to start confidently before moving right to clip a second bolt stationed on Fun Stuff itself. From there, the route pushes directly upward, scaling a steep, improbable face marked by an inviting horizontal crack and a right-facing corner. These features not only provide holds but serve as natural anchors for protection, rewarding careful gear work with a secure ascent.
Set within the stark beauty of Joshua Tree's desert landscape, the rock carries the dry warmth of the sun, offering good friction even in cooler morning hours. The climb is technical rather than overpowering, rated 5.8 and equipped with two fixed bolts paired with placements accommodating gear up to three inches. The exposed face features distinct pockets and edges that give this climb its appeal—each move feels deliberate, as if the rock is encouraging measured progression rather than rushed efforts. Though short, the route packs enough variety to sharpen trad skills, particularly in crack recognition and efficient clip techniques.
Joshua Tree’s unique desert environment means the approach features a mix of sandy soil and scattered boulders, framed by twisted junipers that intermittently shade the base. The climb’s position on the North Side means it catches morning sun before settling into a cooler shade by afternoon, lending a nice thermal balance for early starts or late afternoon sessions during warmer months. Water sources are scarce in this arid setting, so planning for hydration is essential, and sturdy, sticky rubber shoes with solid edging will make traversing the quartz monzonite smoother.
Protection-wise, the two bolts provide reliable anchors, but the route invites climbers to supplement with traditional gear in the crack systems—cams up to three inches fit comfortably. The rock quality is sound, though some edges feel slightly polished due to repeated traffic, so attentive placement is recommended. Given its accessible grade and solid protection, Fun with a Gun is a great choice for climbers stepping into trad after sport or top-rope experiences, or for those wanting a brief but substantial Joshua Tree challenge.
Approach trails are straightforward but best tackled with a moderate level of fitness, as the North Side of Echo Cove is less trafficked and involves navigating through uneven desert terrain. The area’s remoteness adds to the quiet, intimate experience of the climb — you’ll likely share the scene with the desert’s own rhythms: the whisper of wind through scrub, the occasional chatter of wildlife, and the profound stillness that only desert rock can offer.
Whether you're honing crack skills or savoring a technical face climb against a backdrop of timeless desert vistas, Fun with a Gun stands as a practical, rewarding trad climb. Prepare for desert conditions with plenty of water, solid footwear, and sun protection, and you’ll find an engaging route that balances approachable difficulty with scenery that keeps you present and connected to the Joshua Tree spirit.
Although the route includes bolts, careful gear placement in the horizontal crack and corner is necessary to ensure redundancy. The desert setting means sudden temperature changes and sun exposure, so hydration and sun protection are essential. The approach trail is uneven with loose sand and rocks; watch your footing.
Start early to catch morning sun on the North Side and avoid midday desert heat.
Carry at least two liters of water; the approach and climb offer no natural sources.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber for confident edging on polished quartz monzonite.
Place gear carefully — some edges are polished, so testing placements is crucial.
Two fixed 3/8 inch bolts complement placements for cams up to 3 inches. The horizontal crack and right-facing corner offer natural protection spots that require precise gear placement.
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