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Fun in the Sun at Rattlesnake Canyon Crags

Santa Barbara, California United States
slab
multi-pitch
bolted
runout
coastal
granite
Length: 230 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Fun in the Sun
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Fun in the Sun offers a compelling slab climb on the Upper Alchemist wall of Rattlesnake Canyon Crags, combining sun-drenched granite with smooth seams and strategic protection. Ideal for climbers ready for a two-pitch challenge with stunning summit views and a rewarding descent."

Fun in the Sun at Rattlesnake Canyon Crags

Fun in the Sun is a compelling slab climb that carves its way up the Upper Alchemist wall in Rattlesnake Canyon Crags, just outside Santa Barbara. Spanning roughly 230 feet across two pitches, this route invites climbers to engage with smooth patinas, delicate seams, and broad slabs that demand steady footwork and focused balance. The rock stretches out like a sunlit canvas, catching warm rays that highlight every subtle contour and glaze. There’s a serene quiet here, broken only by the whisper of a coastal breeze and the occasional distant call of birds drifting overhead.

This climb rewards the meticulous climber with expansive views at the summit, where a well-earned picnic can unfold beneath an open sky that feels impressively vast. The approach to the crag is straightforward, though the remote feeling of this sandstone amphitheater keeps the experience grounded in nature’s rawness. Expect an experience that tests mental composure on runouts, balanced by dependable bolts placed at strategic intervals, upgraded to sturdy 1/2-inch Rawl bolts to ensure confident movement.

Though some climbers have pushed to link both pitches into one long haul, the rope stretch of 70 meters just barely accommodates such an effort, and breaking the climb into two pitches is a practical and safer choice. Gear requirements are minimalist but precise—eight quickdraws and a few pieces up to 1.5 inches in size cover the protections available, as pockets for natural gear placements appear infrequently amid the slab. This sparse protection calls for a climbing style that blends technical prowess with calculated risk management.

Descending is handled via two rappels with a 70-meter rope—both straightforward provided you carefully follow the route’s rappel anchors. Timing your climb in the morning or late afternoon helps avoid climbing baked rock at midday, with cooler temperatures allowing your shoes to grip the slab firmly without heat-soaked rubber losing traction.

Overall, Fun in the Sun balances approachable difficulty with a rewarding sense of exposure and natural beauty. It’s perfect for climbers seeking a solid slab challenge with enough runout to keep things exciting but bolted enough to feel safe. Santa Barbara’s inviting climate and coastal charm add to the allure, making this a spot where preparation, patience, and a taste for sun-warmed stone come together beautifully.

Climber Safety

Expect some healthy runouts despite solid bolt placements, especially on smooth slab sections where footing is critical. The rock can become slick under heat, so plan climbing sessions during cooler parts of the day to maintain grip and reduce risk.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches2
Length230 feet

Local Tips

Break the climb into two pitches for safer rope management and to avoid running out of rope.

Start early in the day or late afternoon to avoid hot, slippery rock.

Double-check rappel setups before descending; two rappels with a 70m rope get you safely to the ground.

Prepare for several runouts; maintain strong footwork and composure on slab sections.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 R rating reflects moderate technical difficulty paired with runout sections that demand careful movement and mental tenacity. The grading feels fair—neither overly soft nor stiff—but the runouts add a layer of seriousness familiar to experienced slab climbers. Those used to local coastal climbs will find it aligns well with other classic routes in Rattlesnake Canyon.

Gear Requirements

Bring around eight quickdraws and a selection of trad gear up to 1.5 inches to cover the occasional natural protection opportunities. The climb relies mostly on well-placed 1/2-inch Rawl bolts, upgraded for reliable clipping and protection.

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Tags

slab
multi-pitch
bolted
runout
coastal
granite