"Fun Flake delivers an engaging 80-foot trad climb in Yosemite’s Lower Merced River Canyon, where big hand jams lead to a challenging off-width corner and a technical finish. Perfect for climbers eager to test their gear placements and jam technique on clean granite."
Fun Flake offers a crisp introduction to traditional climbing within the rugged contours of the Lower Merced River Canyon. This single-pitch route, stretching 80 feet, unfolds a technical sequence that demands thoughtful gear management and focused movement. The opening section challenges climbers with spacious jams that fit big hands, inviting you to establish secure holds before shifting straight into hands-only jams. Moving upward, the climb transitions into a tight, awkward corner—an inviting bottleneck where balance and patience meet. From here, the route demands a committed lean-back technique on what feels like an off-width, a test of both body tension and mental grit.
The rock’s texture sharpens, with thin face holds guiding you to a pair of bolts equipped with rappel rings, offering a reliable re-set or descent point. For those seeking a slightly extended finish, climbers can exit left from these bolts, stepping onto solid crimps and edges that lead to two more bolts and another set of rap anchors.
Geographically, Fun Flake is perched within Yosemite National Park’s Lower Merced River Canyon, an area renowned for its steep granite walls and relatively quiet approach compared to Yosemite Valley’s busier corridors. The route rewards climbers with a sense of solitude balanced by expansive views of the canyon’s rugged floor and winding river below. When the sun cuts across the face in mid-morning, the granite warms just enough to soften the cool mountain air, offering ideal conditions for this trad gem.
Preparation here is key—bring a rack with a solid set of standard cams, paying special attention to extra #3s and considering larger pieces such as #4 and #5 for the wider sections. Protection placement demands deliberate choices, as the jam cracks vary between hands and off-width sizes. This balance of technical jam climbing and delicate face moves makes Fun Flake an excellent test piece for climbers looking to sharpen trad skills on moderate terrain.
The approach trails through forested paths peppered with pine needles underfoot, offering a gentle incline that warms you into the day’s effort. Expect about 20 minutes from the parking area, with clear GPS coordinates guiding your way.
Descending is straightforward via rappel rings anchored at the top bolts. Always double-check your rig for solid gear and ensure all slings and hardware are secure before trusting the rappel. Seasonal considerations matter here—wet granite can turn slick quickly, so aim for dry, stable conditions typically found in late spring through early fall.
Fun Flake blends technical jam climbing, thoughtful gear use, and a quiet slice of Yosemite’s granite landscape, providing both challenge and reward in one engaging pitch. Whether you’re practicing off-width techniques or refining jam hand placements, this route delivers a compact adventure infused with the park’s timeless spirit.
The rappel rings are essential for descent—ensure they’re solid and set up correctly before committing. The off-width section can be strenuous and unforgiving; have solid placement and avoid resting your weight solely on smaller cams. Avoid climbing when the rock is wet or icy, as this compromises friction and increases risk.
Start early to avoid warming granite and afternoon crowds.
Extra-sized cams (#3, #4, #5) are crucial for secure protection in wide jams.
Check the rappel rings carefully for wear before descending.
Aim for dry conditions to minimize slick rock sections.
Bring a standard trad rack with extra #3 cams, plus a #4 and #5 for wider placements in the off-width section.
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