HomeClimbingFrosted Flake

Frosted Flake: Sport Climbing on The Dome’s Solid Edges

Redway, California USA
sport climbing
flake crux
granite
single pitch
coastal climbing
technical moves
Length: 45 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Frosted Flake
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Frosted Flake is a tight 45-foot sport climb on the solid granite walls of The Dome near Cold Springs, California. Its sustained moves and cruxy flake challenge climbers with precise footwork and steady technique amidst the coastal Redwood backdrop."

Frosted Flake: Sport Climbing on The Dome’s Solid Edges

Frosted Flake offers a focused slice of sport climbing on California’s Redwood Coast that beckons climbers with solid rock and a compact challenge. Set along The Dome’s Split Rock formation near Cold Springs, this route presents a concentrated 45-foot pitch that tests precision and movement on flecked granite. The climb begins close to the ground, inviting you to engage immediately with the defining crux: a substantial flake that demands a confident grab and a committed pull upward. From there, your hands and feet navigate a series of dependable holds, small but secure, as the route gently arcs to the left. The rock feels firm beneath every move, rewarding well-placed effort without surprise, consistent with the quality expected in this well-traveled climbing area.

As you approach the upper section, the challenge intensifies beneath a sharp overlap. This part requires thoughtful body positioning, slightly demanding a push past the roof that guards the final moves. Success here sets you up to reach the two-bolt anchor at the top, shared with the nearby Pink Arches route, providing a confident and safe belay or rappel point.

Though sport climbing enthusiasts will appreciate the seven-bolt protection that keeps the route secure and straightforward to follow, this climb does not pull punches on technique. The 5.10a rating aligns well with its demands: a crux that is neither overstated nor trivial, perfect for climbers ready to refine their smearing and precise hold management on granite.

Beyond the climb itself, the setting enhances the experience. The Dome’s granite walls rise amid the coastal Redwood area where the air is crisp and carries the scent of damp earth and aged wood. The approach is accessible yet maintains a feeling of quiet escape, making Frosted Flake a solid choice for a half-day climbing session or a focused warm-up in a day packed with longer routes.

For planning, keep in mind the exposure and time of day; the route faces west, capturing afternoon sun but offering shade earlier on. Dry conditions are essential for secure footing, as the coastal climate can bring moisture that makes edges slippery. Bring your standard sport rack and double-check your quickdraws, as consistent clipping opportunities ensure flow but rely on clean execution. Finally, use the anchor with care when lowering or preparing to rappel, as the two-bolt setup with rings is reliable but demands proper rigging.

Frosted Flake is a concise and reliable climb that balances adventure with accessibility, an ideal addition to your Redwood Coast agenda. Whether sharpening your sport climbing skills or ticking off a solid 5.10, this route rewards focus and offers a genuine taste of California’s coastal granite climbing culture.

Climber Safety

While the protection is reliable, the climb demands careful attention at the overlap near the top where moves can become reachy. The coastal location means rock may be damp early in the day; verify dry conditions to maintain secure footing and reduce slip risk. Approach and anchor setups also require mindful rigging.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length45 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the afternoon sun heating the rock.

Check for dampness before starting; coastal fog can leave holds slick.

Wear climbing shoes with precise edging capabilities for small holds.

Use the two-bolt anchor with rap rings carefully when setting up your rappel.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The rating of 5.10a feels fair with a distinct crux at the flake near the start followed by sustained technical moves on smaller edges. It sits comfortably for climbers progressing into solid intermediate terrain with consistent and well-protected bolt placements that keep the climb fluid. Compared to nearby routes on The Dome, Frosted Flake offers a neat, concentrated challenge rather than an extended endurance test.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by seven bolts and finishes at a two-bolt anchor equipped with rap rings. A standard sport rack with quickdraws is sufficient. The bolts are well-placed for consistent clipping throughout the climb.

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Tags

sport climbing
flake crux
granite
single pitch
coastal climbing
technical moves