"A single-pitch trad climb on Mt MacDonald that delivers a compact dose of technical crack climbing and a small roof sequence. Perfect for experienced climbers seeking a sharp challenge amidst Vancouver Island’s coastal backdrop."
Carving a direct path up The Cinema wall on Mt MacDonald, "From Here to Eternity" challenges climbers with a compact but demanding 5.10d trad route that delivers punchy moves and technical crack climbing in just one pitch. The climb begins by threading through three well-spaced bolts that guard a small roof, demanding precise footwork and controlled power to pull through this initial obstacle. Beyond the overhang, the crack widens, inviting hands and fingers to find purchase as the route leads to a comfortable ledge—a moment to regroup before the final push. The upper section combines a few more bolts with crack sequences, demanding steady technique and a keen eye for gear placements, as protection alternates between solid bolts and small to medium trad pieces. The bolted anchors at the top offer a reliable finish and a solid belay station.
The Cinema itself is a striking cliff on Victoria’s vibrant Vancouver Island, where temperate coastal forests surround basalt faces, and sea breezes push through the nearby valleys. The climb's single pitch may be short, but the quality of climbing is intense, making it a worthy test for experienced climbers looking to sharpen their crack climbing skills while enjoying the wild coast. Approach trails run smoothly through dense firs, and with the route’s southwest-facing aspect, mornings are cool and shaded, while afternoons bring warmth and dry rock.
Climbers should come prepared with a rack rich in small to medium cams, nuts, and a handful of quickdraws for the bolts, ensuring smooth protection transitions. The rock is solid basalt with minimal loose flakes, but care is needed to spot subtle placements near the roof and top crack. Planning for a weekday or early morning ascent can help avoid weekend crowds and enjoy quieter surroundings. Hydrate well before heading up and pack layers, as coastal weather can shift quickly even in summer.
This route offers the perfect balance of adventure and technique, set in a scenic area where ocean air and evergreen scents mingle. For those ready to step beyond sport climbing into authentic trad terrain with bolted security, "From Here to Eternity" promises a brisk, memorable climb in one of British Columbia’s accessible coastal climbing hubs.
While the rock is generally solid, vigilance is required near the overhang where gear placements can be tricky. The bolted anchors are reliable, but always double-check your placements since the climb expects competent trad skills. Muddy approach trails can increase slip risk after rain.
Start early to enjoy cooler, shaded rock on the southwest face.
Bring a full rack of small and medium cams; placements can be subtle near the roof.
Check weather forecasts carefully—coastal conditions change fast.
Approach trail is straightforward but watch for mud and wet roots after rain.
Bolts protect the roof section with additional small to medium trad gear placements along the crack. Bolted anchors offer a secure belay at the top. Bring a standard rack with an emphasis on smaller cams and nuts for the crack transitions.
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