"Friends is a classic single-pitch trad climb along Powell River featuring a generous hand and fist crack with solid protection from friends and nuts. Perfect for climbers looking to hone crack techniques in a scenic, accessible setting."
Friends offers a straightforward yet rewarding trad climbing experience set against the rugged backdrop of British Columbia’s Powell River region. This single-pitch 30-foot route presents a generous, sprawling crack line that beckons both hand and fist jams, inviting climbers to move fluidly and confidently. The crack widens and flares as it rises, providing a unique tactile challenge that blends strength and technique without overwhelming complexity. Protection is well established, relying on a solid rack of friends and nuts to secure your ascent. A compelling 5.10b variation branches off, inviting climbers to push their limits by gaining a ledge below a prominent corner via a sustained layback sequence. This option adds a layer of difficulty and variety for those hungry for a bit more technical engagement.
Set in the quiet Stillwater area just outside Powell River, this climb benefits from clear, open exposures that catch the sun for much of the day, making it an ideal pick for cool mornings or late-season sessions when warmth is appreciated. The rock, characteristic of the coastal ranges, feels solid and trustworthy, lending confidence as you place protection and move through the crack. Approaching the climb is straightforward, with well-worn trails leading through a calm forested corridor that opens onto the outcrop—a peaceful transition from dense greenery to raw stone.
Gear-wise, a focused rack dominated by camming devices (friends) and a selection of nuts will serve best, as the crack fluctuates in size and demands variable placements. The route’s brevity makes it a perfect introduction to crack climbing in the area or a solid warm-up before tackling longer, more committing lines nearby. Safety-wise, the formations here are stable, but careful gear placement is necessary to ensure a secure hang, especially on the wider sections. Taking time to assess each piece will turn this climb into a smooth and enjoyable adventure rather than a scramble.
Whether you’re new to the trad scene or a seasoned climber looking to savor a classic 5.9 challenge with local flavor, Friends delivers a compact dose of vertical satisfaction. Prepare for a tactile encounter with coastal rock, enjoy the rhythm of crack jams, and finish by soaking in views of the surrounding forested landscape—ready for your next expedition.
While the rock is stable, ensure your gear placements are solid, especially in the flaring and wider sections. Beware that the ledge below the corner can catch loose debris, so wear a helmet and watch for falling pieces during multi-party climbs.
Start early to catch the morning sun warming the wall.
Focus on smooth hand and fist jams to conserve energy.
Check cam sizes carefully for the flaring sections—medium sizes work best.
The approach trail is well-marked but wear sturdy shoes for uneven terrain.
Bring a comprehensive rack of friends ranging from small to medium sizes, as well as a variety of nuts to protect the fluctuating crack widths. No fixed gear is present, so solid placements are essential.
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