Friends offers climbers a solid dose of rugged adventure set against the clear, expansive wilderness of Alberta’s Kananaskis region. This five-pitch trad route rewards steady effort with sweeping panoramas and confident climbing on quality rock that holds firm underfoot and hand. Approaching the climb requires a blend of stamina and quick navigation: a 30-minute bike ride departing from Barrier Lake Dam is your gateway through groves of towering evergreens, followed by a fifteen-minute push through thick underbrush that stokes your anticipation and sharpens your senses before reaching the base. The climb begins in a corner crowned by a horizontal roof, where solid 5.5 holds welcome you into the rhythm of the rock. As you ascend pitch after pitch, the grading nudges upward, challenging both your technique and composure—particularly on the fourth pitch. Here, a distinctive pale white streak marks the crux, where one bolt points the way and signals a spot where prior protective gear failed, now bearing the trust of climbers who follow. The climbing demands careful gear placements and patience; a high pin, tough to clip beyond the bolt, guards the route’s most committing moves. Falling here risks a swing into the corner below, warning climbers to engage focus without panic. Pitch five eases slightly but reminds you this is no casual stroll, finishing on a tree belay where you can pause and look back over the ascent with satisfaction.

Protection calls for a well-rounded rack including TCUs and cams in the 2” to 3.5” range, complemented by medium-sized nuts, Tri-Cams, and a good number of pins to secure placements where natural gear options become scarce. Rope management leans toward twin 55m ropes, though exact length details have been lost to time. After the climb, descending involves a straightforward walk-off northward through forested terrain, inviting you to transition from vertical challenges to the quiet embrace of wilderness.

Friends is more than just a route; it’s an invitation to engage with an undisturbed section of Canadian wilderness where the rock tests your skills and the environment rewards your effort with clear mountain air, rugged solitude, and panoramic views that stretch over forested slopes and jagged ridges. Whether you’re piecing together gear or scoping the rock for your next move, this route balances tested tradition with the raw quality of an untouched peak experience. It represents the core of what many seek in alpine climbing: challenge, beauty, and an honest connection to the land.