Friendly Lizard is a two-pitch trad climb situated in the Grand Wall Base Area of Squamish, British Columbia. This route offers a blend of technical finger cracks and subtle layback moves that demand both focus and finesse. The first pitch pushes sustained 5.9 climbing, featuring fingers laybacks that catch many leaders off guard despite its moderate rating. As you ascend, the rock invites touch with a grip that’s often slickened by moss and lichen, reminding climbers that nature still holds sway here amid the granite walls. At the top of pitch one, you arrive at a bolted anchor where the real adventure continues.

From this ledge, a traverse northward around a cluster of trees leads to a right-facing corner for pitch two. This section demands more careful movement as loose holds pepper the climb, adding a measured sense of caution to the fun technical challenges. The mossy patches stay persistent, forcing steady footwork and deliberate hand placements. Though pitch two doesn’t have a solid established anchor, nearby trees, bolstered with slings, provide reasonable options for securing yourself, though bringing extra sling material is wise.

The route’s character is shaped by its natural state: the first pitch sees regular use and has been cleaned recently, but the second remains more rugged and less tended, offering a taste of classic Squamish climbing where you engage directly with the mountain’s weathered textures and features. Variations such as Hangup, starting partway up the first pitch, split off to the left following a groove with 5.9 moves that again test finger strength and body positioning. This variation then descends toward other routes, illustrating the interconnected nature of this climbing area.

Squamish’s granite dominates the landscape in this region, framing climbs that are as much about reading the rock and terrain as raw power. Friendly Lizard rewards attentive climbers with a route that balances steady difficulty and the thrill of exploration beneath towering walls. Approaching this climb demands solid rack preparation, especially cams up to #3 and plenty of finger-sized protection, as the second pitch’s questionable anchor situation and loose rock require thoughtful gear management and an adaptable mindset.

Access to the Grand Wall Base Area is straightforward, with trails weaving through thick forest stands, carrying the sounds of distant rushing water and the occasional bird call. Timing your ascent for morning shade is recommended, as the route’s north-facing sections tend to stay cooler and mop up moisture slower than sun-drenched walls. Due to the route’s partly clean and partly wild conditions, climbers benefit from extra attention to safety, especially on the second pitch—and considering bolting improvements might be something the climbing community looks to tackle in future seasons.

In all, Friendly Lizard presents a climb that invites reflection on the natural state of Squamish’s rock face: partly polished, partly wild, entirely engaging. This route is an excellent choice for trad climbers looking to push consistent 5.9 moves within a landscape that asks for respect and readiness. Whether taking on the original line or exploring Hangup, climbers will find a test of technique and commitment high above the forest floor.