HomeClimbingFriendly Faces Everywhere

Friendly Faces Everywhere: A Classic 5.9 Trad Climb in Pine Creek Canyon

Bishop, California United States
arete
technical slab
Sierra granite
single pitch
bolted anchor
small pro placements
shade morning
Length: 90 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Friendly Faces Everywhere
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Friendly Faces Everywhere is a focused single-pitch trad climb in Pine Creek Canyon, offering a technical finish that feels harder than its 5.9 rating suggests. Perfect for trad climbers seeking a blend of solid protection and engaging Sierra granite challenges."

Friendly Faces Everywhere: A Classic 5.9 Trad Climb in Pine Creek Canyon

Friendly Faces Everywhere offers a compact but rewarding climb tucked within the rugged walls of Pine Creek Canyon, just a short journey from Bishop, California. This single-pitch trad route stretches about 90 feet, beginning with an inviting arete that quickly transitions into a blocky ledge before leading to a surprisingly challenging upper face. From the ground, the top section demands a moment’s pause; it teases with the sleek, technical appearance of a 5.12 slab, daring climbers to perform with precise footwork and confident body positioning. The rock here is solid Sierra granite, characterized by clean edges and thoughtful holds, making for an engaging and tactile vertical experience.

Approach is straightforward, following well-loved trails through dry pinyon pine and juniper stands, with the landscape opening at intervals to reveal the surrounding ridges and peaks sculpted by years of alpine weather. The climb’s position in the canyon means weather plays a significant role—summer mornings deliver cool shade while afternoons warm the rock, ideal for cooler-season ascents. Enjoy the sound of a dry wind whispering through the trees, punctuated by distant calls of raptors overhead.

Protection is a mix of fixed bolts and traditional gear placements. The route begins with a few bolts, but you’ll need a small #2 Lowe Ball or Black Alien for the start, with additional protection in the 1" to 3" cam sizes for the upper sections. The bolted anchor system is outfitted with Mussy hooks, offering a solid stance for your rappel or lowering. Gear selection is crucial here; the initial placements can feel tight and require precision, while upper gear placements offer more generous pocket placements.

Locals advise timing your climb for early morning to avoid the peak heat, bringing sturdy but flexible shoes that balance edging capability with comfort. Hydration is critical—this dry inland canyon gives no quarter, and water sources are limited nearby. As the route stands at 5.9, it represents a gateway challenge perfect for climbers aiming to refine trad skills while experiencing the raw beauty of the Sierra Eastside.

Once at the summit block, take a moment to absorb the expansive views—sheer granite walls descend below, and beyond lies the high desert plain stretching toward the horizon. Descending is conducted by a straightforward rappel off the two-bolt anchor, so prepare your rope accordingly. The walk back to the trailhead crosses loose scree and gentle brush, requiring attentive footing as you reflect on the coordination of strength, balance, and mental focus this climb demands. Friendly Faces Everywhere is not just a climb; it’s a precise, tangible connection to this wild landscape, challenging your skillset and rewarding with every hold and step upward.

Climber Safety

The rock is solid but the upper slab can be slick with any moisture, and the approach trail crosses loose scree where slips are possible. Double-check all gear placements at the start, as tiny pro required there can feel marginal. Rappel anchors are solid but require familiarity with Mussy hooks for safe descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Start climbs early in the morning to take advantage of cooler, shadier conditions.

Bring a reliable set of small to medium cams along with standard trad rack.

Hydrate well before the climb as water sources near the trailhead are scarce.

Wear shoes with solid edging capabilities balanced with comfort for slab moves.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Though rated 5.9, the upper slab section feels borderline stiff due to its smooth face and delicate footwork demands. Climbers familiar with local Sierra trad routes will find it a good test of precision rather than brute strength. The crux lies in making confident moves on small edges that don’t always scream security, echoing some classic 5.10 slab challenges nearby.

Gear Requirements

Protection includes six bolts throughout with a start requiring tiny gear such as a #2 Lowe Ball or Black Alien. Additional placements need cams from 1 inch up to 3 inches. The two-bolt anchor is equipped with Mussy hooks, facilitating secure and efficient rappels.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Friendly Faces Everywhere and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

arete
technical slab
Sierra granite
single pitch
bolted anchor
small pro placements
shade morning