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Friday Fliers at The Big Section, Mount Nemo

Hamilton, Ontario Canada
trad crack
finger locks
single pitch
loose rock caution
roof traverse
guano ledge
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Friday Fliers
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Friday Fliers is a compact, technical trad climb in The Big Section of Mount Nemo that challenges you with clean crack systems and a guarded approach past loose rock. Perfect for climbers stepping into crack climbing with a taste of natural terrain."

Friday Fliers at The Big Section, Mount Nemo

Friday Fliers offers a straightforward yet engaging trad climb tucked into the rugged terrain of The Big Section at Mount Nemo. This route presents a single pitch ascending approximately 40 feet, beginning just north of a popular formation known as Tits Up. The initial approach leads you through Gooseberry Gully, moving north past a distinctive landmark called The Dead Zone before stepping into the heart of The Big Section. Your entry into the climb calls for a careful traverse to the left to avoid a base piled with loose rock, a reminder that nature maintains a watchful eye over every passage.

The climb itself rewards with solid, clean climbing once above the unstable base, featuring a striking left-facing corner marked faintly by a weathered yellow '16d.' Your hands find grip along a wide crack that ascends the face with steady rhythm, guiding you towards a roof that demands a tactical detour. Here, the route bends around the roof, transitioning smoothly into finger cracks that stretch upward to a wrap station sitting comfortably on a guano-stained ledge—nature's own signpost.

Protection on Friday Fliers relies largely on gear placements labeled “G,” calling for traditional protection suited to crack climbing. While the placement opportunities are generally good, the initial traverse past loose rock means prudence in gear placement and movement is essential. It's an accessible climb at 5.6, making it a solid choice for climbers honing their trad skills or seeking a short, technical ascent with a touch of natural character.

Mount Nemo’s Big Section, where Friday Fliers resides, is part of Ontario’s well-established climbing zones. The area offers a balance of outdoor adventure and manageable access, perched near the city while providing a distinct wilderness feel. Climbers will appreciate the quiet moments between moves, broken only by the whispers of wind and the natural sounds of the surrounding forest canopy.

For planning, approach via established trails through Gooseberry Gully, which provide straightforward footing though with intermittent loose rock near the climb’s base requiring care. A climb of this length and difficulty fits well into a half-day outing, allowing time to savor the climb and explore nearby routes.

In addition to basic climbing gear, sturdy footwear and attention to hydration are practical essentials, as the area can warm quickly under the afternoon sun. The guano ledge at the wrap station adds character to the climb and often signals where to pause and evaluate your next moves. Friday Fliers stands as a quietly compelling route combining accessible grades with the rawness of a less traveled line.

Climber Safety

Be wary of the loose rock at the climb's start—traverse in from the left to stay safe. Double-check all protection placements above this zone and avoid dislodging debris onto climbers below.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start your approach early to avoid heat buildup in the afternoon.

Wear sturdy shoes to handle loose rock at the climb base.

Place gear carefully in the wide crack for reliable protection.

Pause at the guano ledge for a moment to recalibrate before finishing the pitch.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:At a 5.6 rating, Friday Fliers offers moderate difficulty with a commitment to clean crack climbing and a brief tactical traverse around a roof section. The grade feels consistent though the loose rock near the base can add an element of caution uncommon in typical routes of this level.

Gear Requirements

Bring standard trad gear focusing on crack placements; the protection is rated as 'G' so be prepared for secure but sometimes challenging gear spots, especially around the initial traverse to avoid loose rock.

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Tags

trad crack
finger locks
single pitch
loose rock caution
roof traverse
guano ledge