Friction Addiction offers a concise yet engaging trad climb that challenges your technical skills and leaves you perched on a rewarding belay ledge. The route kicks off with a confident move up a short corner, where the granite’s texture demands precision and steady feet. After topping out onto the ledge, the path bends sharply to the right, leading you into a crack system that beckons for deliberate hand jams and careful foot placements. This section tests your ability to balance power and finesse as the crack narrows and opens in rhythm with the rock’s natural flow. When the crack runs out, a well-placed bolt provides a secure clip before the final moves lead you to a roomy belay ledge, inviting a moment to catch your breath and enjoy the rugged environment.

Located within the Gallery Wall, affectionately called the L-Shape, this one-pitch climb weighs in at 85 feet—a rewarding length that’s long enough to feel accomplished but short enough for a spirited afternoon adventure. Situated at the Cochrane Lane Cliffs just outside Welsford, New Brunswick, Friction Addiction unrolls over quality granite with a protective standard trad rack and the confidence of a single bolt to safeguard the route’s crux. The wall’s northeast orientation means morning climbs offer softer light and cooler granite, making it ideal for spring through fall excursions.

The approach is straightforward, drifting over well-maintained trailhead paths peppered with the scent of pine and occasional rustle from the nearby forest. It’s roughly a short walk that transitions smoothly from forest floor to cliff base, setting the stage for an accessible yet engaging climb. Runners should bring shoes with solid edging performance to navigate the slabby friction moves and medium-sized cams to fit the varied crack widths.

Though rated 5.9, Friction Addiction presents a feel that lands slightly on the friendly side—solid for climbing enthusiasts looking for a technical but manageable challenge near the Maritimes. The protective gear placements are reliable, but placing gear in the crack requires steady hands and sharp eyes to avoid awkward reaches. Whether you’re dialing in your crack climbing skills or seeking a solid warm-up pitch before tackling harder routes nearby, this climb stands out as a gem in a less crowded sector.

Descend by scrambling back down the approach trail or downclimb carefully along the adjacent ledge system. Always check for loose rock on the descent and keep a steady footing, as damp conditions can make the granite slick, especially in early spring or after rain. Packing a helmet is wise in this diverse climbing environment where nature can be unpredictable.

In all, Friction Addiction balances the thrill of trad climbing with a practical, welcoming route that rewards those prepared with the right gear and mindset. It’s a climb alive with texture and rhythm that pushes your body and focus while allowing ample space to absorb the rugged beauty of New Brunswick’s cliffside wilderness.