5.9, Trad
Los Angeles
California ,United States
"Freedom of Choss offers a gritty, hands-on trad climb in the Santa Monica Mountains. Encounter loose blocks and fractured rock as you jam a crack that demands sharp focus and a strong rack of wide cams."
Freedom of Choss summons climbers who seek a raw, gritty trad experience etched into the weathered rock of the Santa Monica Mountains. This single-pitch, 50-foot route forces a direct confrontation with unstable terrain, demanding a steady hand and sharp judgment. The crack system invites you to jam your way upward, but soon the solid rhythm shifts to a precarious dance around fractured blocks and loose flakes that challenge your focus and commitment. The rock here doesn’t politely offer itself—it dares you to read its flaws, navigate its broken edges, and finish on the shared anchor with the adjacent Black Face route.
Surrounding the base, scattered large blocks hint at the route’s uncompromising nature, warning climbers of the inherent instability. It’s not a climb for those looking for polished holds or guaranteed stability. Instead, Freedom of Choss offers an unvarnished climbing story where every move must be measured, and protection placements tested with confidence. To protect yourself, come equipped with a standard rack but don’t forget to bring wider cams up to 4 inches to fit the crack’s variable widths.
Located just under 20 miles from downtown Los Angeles, the approach weaves through dry brush and rocky outcrops common in the Santa Monica Mountains. The access path isn’t long but demands attention as footing dips into loose scree patches before reaching the base. Early morning or late afternoon climbs benefit from softer light and cooler temperatures, as the south-facing wall bakes in the midday sun.
Freedom of Choss stands as a reminder that outdoor climbing can be both thrilling and humbling. Climbers should respect the route’s fragility – test each hold and move deliberately. Seasonal conditions matter here; after rain, the rock’s integrity worsens, increasing loose hazards. While the route’s 5.9 rating appeals to many intermediate climbers, the blocky section can push you beyond typical expectations. Compared to other local 5.9 climbs known for solid rock, this climb is tougher mentally and physically because of its unpredictable texture.
Planning your climb around hydration and sun protection will keep you safe. Footwear with good edging and smearing capability helps maintain control on the variable surfaces. After topping out, rappelling down or downclimbing carefully follows the fixed anchors. Stick to established paths to limit impact on this fragile environment.
In a vast climbing landscape peppered with high-profile routes, Freedom of Choss invites you to embrace the wild edge. It’s a short but serious test of skill and nerve where nature sets the terms. Approach it with respect, preparation, and a readiness to engage fully with the rock’s uncompromising character.
Loose blocks and fractured flakes dominate the crux section, increasing fall risk. Test placements thoroughly and remain cautious of dislodging rock. Avoid climbing here after rain when rock stability further decreases.
Approach early or late in the day to avoid harsh sun on the south-facing wall.
Test every hold carefully; rock is fractured and blocky sections require caution.
Bring plenty of water—this route sits in exposed terrain with little shade.
Use wider cams for the crack’s variable width to ensure secure protection.
A standard trad rack is essential, with a focus on wide-range cams up to 4 inches to protect the widening crack sections and offset placements around unstable blocks.
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