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Free For All: A Classic Trad and Sport Climb in Yosemite Valley

Yosemite Village, California United States
granite slab
two-pitch
mixed protection
crack climbing
fixed bolts
Yosemite classic
moderate difficulty
Length: 200 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Free For All
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Free For All offers a balanced mix of sport and trad climbing on Yosemite’s iconic granite slabs. This two-pitch route invites climbers to explore secure bolts and delicate crack placements while savoring sweeping valley views."

Free For All: A Classic Trad and Sport Climb in Yosemite Valley

Carving a direct line through the Parkline Slab, Free For All offers an accessible yet engaging two-pitch climb that bridges the gap between sport convenience and the tactile thrill of traditional protection. Located along the Lower Merced River Canyon in Yosemite Valley, this route lays out roughly 200 feet of vertical granite that demands focus without overwhelming the climber. The first pitch starts boldly, taking a direct variation to the Center Route, threading its way past two well-placed bolts and finishing at chains secured to the rock. The granite here feels solid, but the approach challenges your attention as you carefully select micro nuts, small cams, and runners to supplement the fixed protection. The second pitch returns to the Center Route’s path but opts to ascend through the arching seam and corner, offering a shift in experience—balancing delicate face moves with cracks that invite gear placements typical of a classic Yosemite trad climb. While the pitch eventually converges again with the Center Route, the protection becomes more demanding, favoring mid-sized cams in the 3.5 to 4 Camalot range to safely navigate a more exposed alternative belay station beyond the established tree anchor.

Yosemite’s characteristic granite backdrop is on full display here. The park’s iconic valley face stretches with a light sheen of polish where passage is frequent, contrasting with the rougher, more textured holds in the crack system. The sun arcs overhead, often warming the slab and creating a dry, grippy surface essential during cooler months. Access is straightforward, and a single 70-meter rope will take you down efficiently with a rappel from the first pitch’s chains, or you can push for the top of the Center Route by continuing on pitch two and choosing your descent strategy wisely.

Free For All is ideal for climbers who want to sample Yosemite’s trad offerings with a hint of sport convenience, making it a solid choice for a midday climb or an early spring outing when weather conditions stabilize. Hydrate well before you start, pack layered clothing for temperature swings in the canyon, and slip into shoes with a sticky profile to handle the subtle friction variations the slab demands. Those approaching the second pitch should prepare for more sketchy pro placements and consider bringing a bit more gear to feel secure at the alternative belay.

Whether you’re a Yosemite visitor looking for a reliable, moderately graded line or a local shaking out the rust on your rack, Free For All delivers an accessible adventure with enough technical variety to hold your attention. It’s a climb that walks the fine line between challenge and enjoyment, reminding you why this park continues to inspire generation after generation of climbers.

Climber Safety

While the fixed protection on pitch one is reliable, the second pitch’s alternative belays require more careful gear placements. Make sure your cams fit snugly in the arching seam corners, and maintain vigilance for slab sections where a slip could carry serious consequences.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches2
Length200 feet

Local Tips

A 70m rope is sufficient for the ascent and rappel from the first pitch.

Start early to avoid the slab warming up excessively in afternoon sun.

Bring extra slings for the belay around the tree on pitch two if you plan to continue beyond the first rappel station.

Shoes with solid rubber and precise edging will improve footing on the slab sections.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on Free For All is approachable but demands solid technique, especially where the crack system kicks in on the second pitch. It feels quite true to grade—neither unusually soft nor harsh—with the crux focusing on gear placements and delicate footwork rather than sustained physical strain. Climbers familiar with routes like the nearby Center Route will find the challenge familiar but rewarding.

Gear Requirements

A lightweight rack with small micro nuts and cams will cover most placements, along with draws and runners for the fixed bolts. For the second pitch, mid-sized cams (Camalot 3.5 to 4) are essential to secure the alternative belay beyond the tree anchor.

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Tags

granite slab
two-pitch
mixed protection
crack climbing
fixed bolts
Yosemite classic
moderate difficulty