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Four No More - A Classic Trad Gem at Mount Nemo

Hamilton, Ontario Canada
trad
face climbing
single-pitch
limestone
beginner-friendly
good protection
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Four No More
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Four No More at Mount Nemo blends approachable trad climbing with engaging face moves just left of a shallow cave. This single-pitch, 5.5 route offers a perfect step into the limestone world of Ontario’s Golden Horseshoe."

Four No More - A Classic Trad Gem at Mount Nemo

Four No More offers climbers a straightforward but robust introduction to traditional climbing at Mount Nemo, a quietly popular destination tucked into Ontario's Golden Horseshoe region. While this 5.5 route stretches only a single pitch, its charm lies in how it unfolds just off Palm Sunday, veering left of the familiar shallow cave. As you leave the cave’s shelter, the rock opens into crisp face climbing that demands attention to technique and careful gear placement. The route’s moderate difficulty invites both newcomers eager to gain confidence on gear and seasoned climbers looking for a relaxed warm-up in a stunning natural setting.

Mount Nemo itself presents a limestone canvas where pockets and edges offer varied holds, testing your balance and route-reading skills in equal measure. The approach to Four No More is accessible, with well-used trails through open forest that reward you with quiet bird calls and the rustle of leaves underfoot. The rock here benefits from good sun exposure, warming up early on cool mornings and drying quickly after a light rain, making timing an important factor to consider.

Practically speaking, bring a standard trad rack, focusing on small to medium cams and nuts; placements can be well-protected but require precise judgment, especially around the initial sections near the cave mouth. Protection is essential here—don’t underestimate the risk of runouts if you ignore the gear spots. The climb finishes on ledges with excellent vantage points, allowing time to soak in the sweeping views of the Niagara Escarpment’s rolling greens and the distant urban skyline.

Regular visitors praise Four No More for its combination of straightforward climbing movements and the quiet solitude of its location. Its moderate grade makes it a perfect introduction to trad ethics for those ready to move beyond sport routes, while seasoned climbers appreciate it as a reliable route to hone subtle skills without the stress of harder grades. Whether making your first trad lead or stacking routes in the area, this climb rewards respect for the rock and thoughtful preparation.

For planning your trip, know that the area’s popularity can bring company on weekends, so an early start helps find quiet trails and less crowded belay ledges. Water is scarce at the base, so pack sufficient hydration, and sturdy shoes are advised to handle the approach terrain and the limestone slab footing during ascent. Keep an eye on weather forecasts; the shallow cave provides minimal shelter from storms, so climbing conditions must be dry and stable for safe enjoyment.

Four No More is an honest trad crawl with a welcoming personality—straight to the point, rich in texture from rock to forest, and offering a vivid taste of Ontario climbing’s character. Prepare well, move smartly, and you’ll leave with more than just a climb logged—you’ll carry a clear memory of the mountain’s quiet challenge as a backdrop to your adventure.

Climber Safety

Gear placements near the cave’s edge require vigilance—loose or tricky spots may increase runout risks. Approach trails can be slick in wet weather, so caution is key on damp limestone slabs.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid crowds on weekends and secure quieter belay spots.

Wear solid approach shoes to handle mixed trail terrain and limestone slabs.

Carry enough water—no reliable sources on approach or at the base.

Climb only in dry conditions as the shallow cave offers minimal shelter from sudden rain.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.5
Quality
Consensus:The 5.5 rating is straightforward but never to be underestimated on trad gear. The grade feels true to the style, with no soft spots, and the crux comes from careful gear placements combined with balance on face holds. Compared to nearby routes, it’s one of the more accessible climbs while still teaching essential trad skills.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack recommended, focusing on small to medium cams and nuts. Careful placement necessary near the cave entrance, with overall good protection along the pitch.

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Tags

trad
face climbing
single-pitch
limestone
beginner-friendly
good protection