"Four Five Six offers a technical left-trending hand crack up Eagle Rock, packed with reliable protection and a rewarding ledge finish. Perfect for trad climbers sharpening crack skills in New Brunswick’s inviting wilderness."
Set against the rugged contours of Eagle Rock in Welsford, New Brunswick, Four Five Six offers a distinctive trad climbing experience that demands both technical skill and a steady calm. This route embraces a left-leaning hand crack, weaving through a sequence of flakes that test your finger strength and body positioning without overwhelming the senses. The climb ascends approximately 40 feet to a notable large ledge, presenting a brief but intense encounter with the rock’s personality. The granite surface, textured and reliable, permits solid protection placements along the way—a relief in a route where the movements invite a deliberate pace. While awkward in spots, the hand crack’s rhythm sets a natural flow that guides climbers up and left, rewarding persistence with a satisfying finish on an exposed ledge perfect for a breather and a moment to appreciate the quiet wilderness spread out below. Practical gear choices—a standard rack, sized to comfortably fill the crack without over-camming—are essential here, as protection is generous but demands care to avoid tricky placements. Approaching Eagle Rock involves a short hike through mixed forest paths, where the crisp air and the distant calls of birds sharpen your focus for the climb ahead. This route is ideal for climbers looking to hone crack technique in a setting that balances adventure with accessible logistics. Expect some awkward moves off the ground that gently introduce the sequence, then settle into the groove of the climb, mindful of foot placements and body tension. Though brief, Four Five Six challenges your attention to detail and rewards with a hands-on connection to the rock, making it a worthwhile stop for trad enthusiasts seeking a polished but approachable crack climb in the heart of New Brunswick’s climbing landscape.
While protection is generally reliable, some placements require careful positioning to prevent slippage. The initial section’s awkward moves demand focused footwork to avoid unnecessary swings or falls. Check the ledge for loose rocks before resting.
Bring a full standard rack including small to medium cams for varied crack widths.
Approach Eagle Rock via the well-marked trail from Welsford, allow 20 minutes.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun exposure on the climb’s left-facing wall.
Watch your foot placements on the initial awkward moves to maintain balance.
Standard trad rack recommended, focusing on cams that fit hand and fist-sized placements. Protection is ample but careful gear placement is required due to the crack’s flare and occasional awkward sections.
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