"For Love of Mothernot on Mt. Thorodin offers a thoughtful three-pitch trad climb blending mellow slabs with delicate face moves. This route suits climbers eager to refine slab skills within a scenic Colorado backcountry setting."
For Love of Mothernot presents a measured yet rewarding three-pitch climb on Mt. Thorodin's second buttress, sitting gracefully above Golden Gate Canyon State Park in Colorado. This route, a gentle slab with subtle edges, beckons climbers who appreciate finesse over brute force. The approach sets the tone, with either a left-leaning scramble up a 3rd to 4th class ramp to a large tree or a straightforward 60-70 foot easy pitch from the low-angle buttress leading to a treed ledge below the arête. Once on the rock, the first pitch invites you to wander up a low-angled 5.6 crack corner, culminating at a comfortable ledge anchored by a large tree. Here, the air is cool, the forest below steady and green, and the granite's texture ready to be tested.
The second pitch demands sharper focus: a move left to a crack system begins the ascent, followed by crossing onto the big flake plate where a single bolt marks the crux. The slab's subtle features challenge balance and precision, with delicate face moves that push the limits of 5.9 climbing. The careful clipping of that lone bolt offers safety, while the surrounding exposures provoke respect. For purists, an alternative, more direct line up the slab promises a stiffer, runout experience for those confident in their slab craft.
The final pitch moves up the thin right edge of the flake, where small aliens and wires provide security amid the brief but fun flake climb. The route ends at a two-bolt anchor perched on a ledge, a vantage point that offers a sweeping view of the surrounding pine-dotted hills. Though the flake could have extended endlessly, this short pitch satisfies with its clean lines and crystal-clear rock. Descending by rappel using two ropes (80 and 130 feet) is straightforward but requires attention to rope management to avoid snags on the ledges below.
Protection on this climb demands a single set of cams up to Camalot #3, along with aliens and wires, reflecting a traditional approach where natural placements are prized. The bolt on pitch two is a welcome safety reminder on the more technical slab. Bringing longer slings is advisable to reduce rope drag, especially on the flake where placements are small and spaced.
Approaching this climb is a serene journey through the forested Colorado foothills with sights of the Golden Gate Canyon valley stretching beyond. The granite here holds a quiet firmness, occasionally warmed by afternoon sun but mostly shaded during morning climbs, making spring through fall the ideal window. Local weather rolls in quickly, so preparedness for sudden changes is crucial. Footwear with sticky soles and solid ankle support will make the mellow approach and slab easier to manage.
For Love of Mothernot presents a rewarding blend of slab tradition and measured challenge wrapped in a setting that balances forest calm with the thrill of exposure. It’s not the hardest climb in the area, but it offers a perfect introduction for climbers moving beyond basics who want to hone slab technique and enjoy the quiet pulse of Colorado’s rock. The route’s combination of crack climbing, slab delicacy, and flake finesse invites a mindful, paced ascent where each move holds meaning and every step is part of the larger adventure.
Watch for sparse protection on the slab crux (pitch two); relying on that lone bolt and well-placed gear is crucial. The ledges can hold loose debris, so check placements carefully and be mindful of rock quality during the ascent and rappel.
Approach via the 3rd to 4th class left-angling ramp for an easier arrival at the belay tree.
Bring sticky-soled shoes with good support for confident slab footing.
Start early in the day to avoid warmer sun exposure on the slab pitches.
Carry two ropes (80 and 130 ft) for a smooth and safe rappel descent.
A single set of cams up to #3 Camalot, aliens, and wires cover the protection needs. The second pitch features a single bolt; long slings help in reducing rope drag on delicate slab sections.
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