HomeClimbingFollower's Folly

Follower's Folly: A Direct Route on VD Wall

Devil's Punchbowl, California USA
multi-pitch
trad gear
sport bolts
thin edges
slab
desert climbing
exposed
high desert
Length: 180 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Follower's Folly
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Follower's Folly draws climbers into an engaging three-pitch climb on the striking VD Wall. With a compelling mix of thin edges, clean headwalls, and exposed sandstone waves, it offers a memorable high desert experience that balances technical challenge with raw landscape beauty."

Follower's Folly: A Direct Route on VD Wall

Follower's Folly stakes its claim on the rugged VD Wall, calling climbers into the high desert’s sun-baked sandstone. The route offers three pitches weaving a path from the broad ramp beneath a cavernous recess to the wall’s highest point. The first pitch draws you up using thin edges and delicate smears, threading carefully past six bolts—one notably missing a hanger, demanding creativity in clipping. This initial section sets the tone, combining technical restraint with flowing movement as you traverse the ramp leaning slightly left, then pushing upward toward a pronounced left-tilting flake that provides a welcome handhold en route to the belay ledge anchored by chains. The sandstone beneath your fingers is firm yet variable, offering a tactile challenge that rewards focused precision.

Above this, pitch two leads straight up a clean headwall framed by three bolts and smooth rock, providing a chance for natural gear placements on a small ledge should you prefer to supplement the protection. Here, the sandstone feels cleaner and more sculpted, presenting moderate moves that don't overwhelm but require steady attention.

The final stretch is a more exposed scramble up the unprotected face, where the natural features rise in gentle waves, and the rock subtly undulates beneath the climber’s touch. Without fixed gear, this pitch tests your comfort on sandstone cracks and the ability to place reliable protection as you gain the summit of VD Wall. The finish pitches left and up through a crack system where gear anchors await.

Despite its allure, this climb demands respect — the upper pitches offer sparse protection and the descent is uncertain enough to recommend rappelling off after the first pitch unless you’re highly familiar with the area. The route sits in a remote, sun-drenched pocket of California’s high desert, where heat and exposure shape the experience as much as the stone itself. Allow for early starts, sturdy footwear, and ample hydration. This line strikes a balance between playful adventure and a cautious approach, ideal for climbers looking to explore classic sandstone in an unvarnished, raw setting.

Climber Safety

Upper pitches have limited protection and involve unbolted sandstone face climbing, so be prepared for careful gear placements and potential runouts. The descent is not well marked and can be hazardous; rappelling after the first pitch is recommended to avoid an uncertain walk-off across loose terrain.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches3
Length180 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid high midday heat on the exposed sandstone.

Bring extra water—shade is minimal and temperatures can soar.

Clip the second bolt carefully; it lacks a hanger, so a wired nut can help.

Consider rappelling after pitch one unless confident in the upper pitch protection and the walk-off.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating fits comfortably with the demands of the route but leans toward the more physical end of the scale. The crux occurs on the first pitch with thin edges and tricky clipping caused by the missing hanger bolt. The following pitches feel a bit easier in terms of technical moves but demand greater attention for gear placements and route-finding. Compared to other local climbs on sandstone, Follower’s Folly sits as a moderate challenge with an emphasis on slick, friction-based climbing rather than aggressive overhangs.

Gear Requirements

The route requires a mix of quickdraws for bolts and a solid rack of traditional gear for the upper pitches, where protection is sparse. The first pitch includes six bolts, one lacking a hanger, so bringing a wired nut to clip is advisable. Gear anchors are recommended for the ledges above, and building reliable placements on the final pitch’s crack is essential for safety.

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Tags

multi-pitch
trad gear
sport bolts
thin edges
slab
desert climbing
exposed
high desert