Adventure Collective
HomeClimbingFogged Glass Nudity

Fogged Glass Nudity: A Compact Testpiece of Trad and Top Rope Climbing at Gnome Dome

Buffalo Creek, Colorado United States
thin crack
mantle move
small gear
no anchors top
bushy ledge
single pitch
Length: 65 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Fogged Glass Nudity
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Fogged Glass Nudity offers a compact, single-pitch trad and top rope challenge at Gnome Dome. It demands precision gear placements and careful route-reading on a narrow crack face with minimal protection above a bushy ledge."

Fogged Glass Nudity: A Compact Testpiece of Trad and Top Rope Climbing at Gnome Dome

Fogged Glass Nudity sits quietly along the rugged face of Gnome Dome within the Buffalo Creek corridor, an area that blends raw granite with the expansive wilderness of South Platte, Colorado. This single-pitch climb delivers a compact yet focused challenge for those who appreciate a mix of technical crack climbing and routefinding precision. From the base, the climb demands an immediate mantle move onto the face—a move that tests both balance and confidence. Beyond that, the narrow crack beckons you upward, requiring careful placements of small gear through a section where protection becomes increasingly sparse.

As you ascend, the crack thins and angles slightly right, compelling a shift off-center onto a narrow ledge covered in vegetation. This is where strategy takes over; above lies a thin, unattractive crack with no protection opportunities. Most climbers, acknowledging the absence of reliable gear, opt to anchor midway on this bushy ledge rather than continuing to the summit, where no secure anchors exist. Alternatively, you can carefully tunnel back through a narrow slot to reach the top, but this maneuver offers little reward in terms of safety or enjoyment.

The route’s character is honest and unembellished—a quick, mental puzzle rather than a sprawling adventure. Protection is straightforward but requires a standard rack up to a #2 Camalot, with a single bolt bolstering security on the initial face. Creating a solid anchor requires ingenuity and small gear nuts, with squirrelly placements demanding attention and finesse. Because the climb sits in the shadow of more popular lines nearby, it’s less traveled but offers climbers a rare chance to sharpen crack skills in a modest, accessible setting.

Buffalo Creek’s broader environment lends an invigorating backdrop: pine-scented breezes carry the sounds of a flowing creek, while the granite absorbs the changing light of the afternoon sun. The surrounding forest embraces the approach trail, which is a relatively short but uneven hike—steady footing is essential to avoid slips on loose rock and tree roots.

Gear-wise, bring a compact rack focused on small cams and nuts, lightweight to ease the short approach but comprehensive enough for solid placements during the climb. Footwear with sticky rubber is a must for precise edging on slab sections, and gloves can help navigate the vegetated ledges comfortably. Timing your ascent for mid-morning to midday maximizes sun exposure, as the face gains shade in the late afternoon.

This route won’t overwhelm with length or exposure, but it fits a unique niche for climbers seeking a focused, single-pitch trad experience with the option for top rope practice. The absence of fixed anchors at the top encourages a conservative descent strategy, reinforcing safe practices in remote climbing zones. Expect a climb that demands respect for careful gear management and route reading in a calm, forest-fringed setting.

In short, Fogged Glass Nudity is a bite-sized climb of sharp moves and measured risk, located within the vast playground of South Platte’s granite walls. Whether you approach it as a warmup, a skill-builder, or a quiet solo mission, this route carves out its own understated space among Colorado’s climbing spots.

Climber Safety

Lack of anchors at the top requires building a gear-based belay on a small bushy ledge before the summit. The climb’s thin crack sections demand precise placements—low protection above the bolt creates fall potential. The landing zone is uneven; helmet use and cautious rope management are advised.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length65 feet

Local Tips

Approach via Buffalo Creek trailhead with steady footing—watch for loose rocks and roots.

Bring a rack with small cams and nuts; larger cams aren’t needed.

Plan to anchor before the top ledge; there are no secure anchors at the summit.

Morning or midday climbs are best to catch sunlight on the face.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, the climb leans on a solid, technical crack move with a mantle that can catch climbers off guard. The grade feels true to the movement without being overly stiff, though protection scarcity above the initial bolt adds an element of mental challenge. Compared to other 5.9 trad routes in the area, it’s shorter and less committing but requires careful gear placement and route reading.

Gear Requirements

Requires a standard rack up to #2 Camalot plus nuts. One bolt near the base provides aid for the initial mantle move. No fixed anchors exist at the summit; an anchor can be built on a small ledge with a nut and #1 and #2 Camalots.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Fogged Glass Nudity and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

thin crack
mantle move
small gear
no anchors top
bushy ledge
single pitch