"Flower of High Rank offers a classic, sustained 5.9 crack climb at Suicide Rock. Its distinctive tree marking the route and the sweeping roof crux make it a favorite moderate trad climb with exposure and solid protection."
Flower of High Rank embodies the essence of classic moderate trad climbing in the heart of California's renowned Suicide Rock area. This single-pitch 5.9 crack route offers a rich blend of technical jamming and exposed face climbing that keeps climbers coming back for more. From the moment you approach the climb, the route announces itself where the Northeast Face bends into the North Face, marked by an unmistakable small tree—often draped with slings—that grows halfway up the crack around 70 feet. This feature serves as both a visual beacon and a natural rest spot during the climb.
Your ascent starts with a scramble up a right-facing corner, which may require a bit of hands-on balance or a short pitch if you prefer to avoid the potential rope drag. Once at the base of the main crack, the real climbing challenge unfolds. The first section demands sustained hand, finger, and off-finger jams, testing your crack technique while rewarding you with steady upward progress. Reaching the tree provides a welcomed breather, a moment to appreciate the dry desert air and the vast outlook that Suicide Rock affords.
From here, the route splits into two distinct options: a straight-up crack or a sweeping, arching crack that angles sharply right, tempting climbers with its exposed character. The right-trending crack is truly where the climb shines, offering adventurous climbing across the face with increasing exposure. Approaching the roof crux, movements grow more demanding. This section, rated at 5.9, requires patience and precise body positioning. Take your time solving this puzzle—the roof has challenged many with its dynamic moves and tricky holds.
After surmounting the roof, the climb concludes with a couple of 5.7 hand jams that grant you a satisfying finish. The rock here is solid granite, providing reliable protection placements with a standard trad rack. You'll want a full range of nuts and cams up to size #3. While some past ascents have leaned on memory, be sure to carry extra pro if you prefer a comfortable margin.
Flower of High Rank distills everything that makes Suicide Rock a quintessential destination: well-protected cracks, thrilling exposure, and a physical yet accessible challenge that suits intermediate to advanced climbers looking to sharpen their crack skills. Whether it's your first visit or a welcome return, this route’s balance of character and technique ensures it remains a cornerstone of the area’s climbing scene.
Watch for rope drag on the initial corner scramble if not roped in from the start, and build a solid anchor at the tree if you choose to break the climb into two pitches. The roof crux demands careful focus; falls here may swing climbers into rock ledges.
Start scrambling the right-facing corner carefully to avoid unnecessary rope drag.
Use a 200-foot rope to belay from the ground comfortably, or set a belay at the tree with a buildable anchor.
Take your time at the roof crux—patience and body positioning pay off here.
Bring extra gear if you prefer added security for tricky placements near the crux.
A standard rack with nuts and a double set of cams ranging from small sizes up to #3 is sufficient. Protective gear placements are generally straightforward but some may require careful placement above the roof section.
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