HomeClimbingFlemish Cap

Flemish Cap at The Three Amigos, Buena Vista

Buena Vista, Colorado United States
trad
crack climbing
multi-pitch
moderate grade
Colorado
north-east facing
finger crack
corner
flake
Length: 400 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
4
Location
Flemish Cap
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Flemish Cap weaves through thin cracks and flakes in a series of four engaging pitches just outside Buena Vista. Balanced between technical moves and accessible terrain, this trad climb serves up a hands-on experience perfect for honing crack skills while soaking in classic Colorado mountain views."

Flemish Cap at The Three Amigos, Buena Vista

Flemish Cap presents a classic Colorado trad climbing experience where technical finesse meets straightforward adventure. Located within the rugged contours of The Three Amigos area near Buena Vista, this route stretches over four pitches of variable crack climbing that reward both focus and a steady rhythm. The first pitch kicks off with a demanding thin crack, guiding you upward to a patch of flakes that feel alive beneath your fingers. As the flakes fade, step right to a finger crack that directs you to a roomy belay ledge about 100 feet up. Here, the rock’s character shifts slightly, offering solid holds and a satisfying challenge at a 5.8 PG13 rating. Continuing upward, the second pitch eases into a series of manageable cracks leading to a right-facing corner, where you’ll find a good spot to establish an anchor just beyond a roof. The 5.7 difficulty lets you catch your breath while staying engaged with the rock’s textured surface.

Pitch three extends the experience with a blend of easy moves leading into a shallow, left-facing corner. The climb then transitions into a seam that takes you to a prominent ledge marked by a horizontal crack, an ideal station for belaying. At 150 feet, it's the longest pitch and a test of sustained focus through moderate climbing rated at 5.8. The final pitch brings a gentle finish; a 50-foot hike of easy climbing at 5.4 leads directly to the top, where sweeping views of Buena Vista’s rugged landscape unfold. The descent is straightforward, making the route accessible and well-suited as a rewarding half-day adventure.

Gear up with a standard rack, paying special attention to doubles from 0.3" to 2"—the range that fits the varied crack sizes encountered along the route. Protection placements require attention on the thinner sections, especially early on, where secure placements are key to confidence and safety. The rock feels solid and trustworthy, but the PG13 rating serves as a reminder to respect the crimps and flakes that demand careful movement.

This climb offers an approachable yet stimulating challenge for trad climbers comfortable with mid-range grades and multi-pitch routes. The mix of crack types—thin fingers, flakes, corners — ensures that technique and gear management stay top of mind. The setting, just outside the welcoming town of Buena Vista, balances wilderness immersion with easy access to local amenities. Timing your climb during late spring through early fall maximizes favorable weather and rock conditions, with morning ascents leveraging cooler temperatures and less sun exposure on the northeast-facing wall.

Flemish Cap is a solid choice for climbers aiming to sharpen crack skills in a scenic and varied environment, without committing to longer or more remote objectives. The combination of manageable length, clear route-finding, and dependable rock offers an engaging day out, whether you’re expanding your trad repertoire or savoring a classic Colorado climb.

Climber Safety

Watch for delicate flakes on the first pitch; placements here require care and accurate footwork to avoid slips. Loose rock potential is low, but the PG13 rating advises cautious moves and thorough gear checks, especially in the thinner cracks. The walk-off descent is straightforward but be mindful of scree and unstable ground near the base.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches4
Length400 feet

Local Tips

Start your climb early to avoid afternoon heat and maximize cooler rock conditions.

Use sticky rubber shoes for better grip on the flakes and thin cracks.

Doubles in the 0.3"-2" range are crucial for secure protection—don't skimp on these sizes.

The descent is a walk-off; stay aware of loose rocks when descending.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 PG13 rating reflects a climb that is moderate but demands precise technique, particularly on the thin crack sections of pitch one. The grade is well-placed, neither soft nor overly stiff, with a crux early on that tests finger strength and gear placement skills. Compared to nearby climbs, Flemish Cap offers a balanced challenge that fits nicely for trad climbers looking to refine crack climbing without committing to more sustained or exposed routes.

Gear Requirements

Bring a single standard rack up to 4 feet, with doubles for cams ranging from 0.3" to 2". These sizes match the crack variations along all four pitches.

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Tags

trad
crack climbing
multi-pitch
moderate grade
Colorado
north-east facing
finger crack
corner
flake