HomeClimbingFlatman Chimney

Flatman Chimney: A Classic Chimney Climb at Suicide Rock

Idyllwild, California United States
chimney
overhang crux
medium cams
desert granite
single pitch
5.9 trad
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Flatman Chimney
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Flatman Chimney offers a compact yet rewarding chimney climb at Suicide Rock. With a short overhang crux and solid protection, this 5.9 trad route challenges your technique and offers a direct line up a distinctive desert granite formation."

Flatman Chimney: A Classic Chimney Climb at Suicide Rock

Flatman Chimney offers climbers a direct and engaging chimney experience just right of the infamous Escalator on Suicide Rock, a prime destination within California’s rugged Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks area. This route stands out with its straightforward line, inviting climbers who appreciate a focused challenge in close quarters. From the moment you start, the chimney asserts its presence—a vertical slot of rock that demands body awareness and steady climbing technique. The initial section includes a short crux overhang that forces you to commit while managing well-placed protection. These placements are mainly medium to large gear, reassuring those concerned about safety and allowing a confident ascent through the tight passage. Beyond this key move, the chimney eases up considerably, opening into easier terrain that leads directly to the comfortable top-out.

The location offers more than just technical climbing—it immerses you in the iconic desert environment, framed by stark, sun-baked granite that reflects the harsh yet beautiful character of Southern California climbing. The approach is accessible, making it perfect for climbers who want a solid single-pitch trad route without the commitment of a long multi-pitch adventure. At 60 feet in length, Flatman Chimney delivers a concentrated dose of movement and challenge that’s ideal for intermediate climbers testing their crack and chimney skills.

Gear-wise, bringing a modest rack equipped for medium and larger placements is enough to protect all the key positions comfortably. The chimney’s nature lends itself well to traditional protection, but awareness and careful placements remain essential. The route’s 5.9 rating aligns well with the physical demands of the crux and chimney climbing technique, encouraging climbers to focus on body positioning and footwork over brute strength.

Suicide Rock’s well-established reputation and the climb’s straightforward access make this a rewarding route during cooler months when the sun sits just right to warm the granite without overheating the climber. The approach trail is clearly marked and gentle, weaving through sparse vegetation and offering glimpses of the broader San Jacinto Wilderness. Descending is simple: a short walk off the back down the approach trail, ensuring a smooth return to base and plenty of time to explore other nearby climbs.

For those looking to sharpen their chimney climbing or get a taste of classic Tahquitz trad without complex logistics, Flatman Chimney provides a distinctly satisfying outing. Its blend of solid protection, straightforward movement, and memorable desert climbing vibe ensures it remains a staple on the Suicide Rock climbing roster.

Climber Safety

While protection is generally good, the overhang requires confident gear placements in a tight chimney. Ensure your medium and large cams are well placed before committing, and watch for loose rock or wear on holds near the crux.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Climb early in the day to avoid intense desert heat on the granite.

Focus on footwork during the chimney section to conserve energy.

Check gear placements thoroughly at the overhang crux for security.

Wear approach shoes for a short, clear trail hike to the base.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Flatman Chimney presents a focused challenge with a short crux that demands precise technique and sound protection. The grade suits climbers comfortable with chimney movement but still offers a pulse-raising move around the overhang. This is a classic local 5.9 that feels true to its rating, with a clean, manageable crux unlike more sustained routes in the area.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack focused on medium to large cams and nuts; protection opportunities at the crux allow comfortable placements around the overhang within the chimney.

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Tags

chimney
overhang crux
medium cams
desert granite
single pitch
5.9 trad