Flare Island stands out along Newfoundland’s rugged northeastern coast, a bold one-pitch climb that demands both power and precise technique. This route is defined by its aggressively flared and overhung hand crack, inviting climbers into a sustained battle of jams and locks that push strength to its limits. From the moment you approach the base, the crack dares you to engage fully—starting with a steep pull over a roof where every move requires calculated effort, followed by a relentless sequence of desperate jams climbing out of the overhang toward the summit.

The rock here is raw and unforgiving, rewarding those who come prepared with offset cams capable of protecting the trickier placements while relying on two fixed top bolts for security. Although it is possible to top-rope the route thanks to good access, leading it adds a layer of commitment that hones your crack climbing skills.

This part of The After-Hours sector offers climbers a chance to push themselves on a short but intense climb set against the isolated, windswept cliffs of Flare Island. The approach is straightforward, with trails leading climbers close to the edge of one of Newfoundland’s more remote coastal crags. The area’s chill sea breeze contrasts sharply with the physical heat generated by fighting the flared crack, delivering a raw outdoor experience that is as much about mental focus as physical prowess.

Because this route is a sustained 5.11+ single pitch, it’s not suited for beginners. However, advanced climbers looking to refine crack techniques will find Flare Island irresistible. The climb offers a rare blend of forceful climbing and precision—where every jam, layback, and reach counts. Given the coastal surroundings, the views from the top reward those who complete the grind, encompassing vast blue waters meeting Newfoundland’s rocky contours.

Planning your climb here means bringing gear that accommodates off-width and hand cracks—particularly a mix of offset cams—and being ready for any weather changes typical of the Atlantic coast. Footwear with excellent edging and smearing capability will assist in sticking the moves on the less featured rock faces adjacent to the crack. Timing your climb for days with stable weather ensures safer, more enjoyable conditions.

Flare Island captures the essence of adventurous trad climbing in Canada’s east, blending technical challenges with a sense of remoteness few spots can match. Whether you choose to top rope to familiarize yourself or lead directly into the demanding crack, this climb demands respect and rewards commitment with a memorable test of crack climbing grit amid an evocative coastal wilderness.