"Flaming Doobries stands out as a solitary crack climb on a bright white face northwest of Pernicious Dome. A single-pitch 5.9 trad line with solid medium gear placements, it offers a quiet, focused climbing experience in a lesser-known corner of Joshua Tree National Park."
Flaming Doobries offers climbers a distinctive slice of Joshua Tree's rugged charm, perched boldly on a standalone formation northwest of the well-known Pernicious Dome. Its southwesterly-facing white face gleams in the afternoon sun, providing a clear and inviting line of ascent that contrasts sharply against the rougher stone nearby. At 50 feet, this single-pitch trad route cuts a clean crack up the rock, demanding precise hand and finger jams and steady footwork. The placement of medium-sized gear keeps protection straightforward but requires attention to detail. Even though it doesn’t crowd climbing lists or guidebooks, this hidden gem stakes its claim with a confident, classic 5.9 difficulty rating that feels earned through delicate moves and subtle challenges.
Approaching Flaming Doobries involves a brief but purposeful hike through Wonderland of Rocks, with GPS coordinates pointing to 34.06091 latitude and -116.17034 longitude. The rock formation stands distinct and unmissable once located, catching sunlight in ways that make the white rock almost glow. The route’s uniqueness comes not only from its bittersweet scarcity—being the only established line on this rock—but also from the solitude that accompanies its quieter presence, offering a chance to move through the crux in relative peace.
Protection is suited to a traditional rack emphasizing medium cams, where placements tend to be straightforward but worth double-checking for solid holds among slightly abrasive granite. Climbers will appreciate the firmness of the rock, which roars slightly with each clean contact but rewards careful foot placements with reliable friction. The SW-facing wall warms up as the day progresses, making mid-morning to early afternoon the best window for drier, more grippy conditions.
This route showcases the essence of Joshua Tree’s less-traveled corners—compact, sharp, and rewarding technical skill over brute strength. While the climb’s single pitch makes it a great choice for a quick session, its setting inside Wonderland North promises breathtaking views and the chance to explore further climbs in the area. Don’t overlook the value of sturdy footwear and ample water, as the desert’s heat can build quickly despite the climb’s approachable length. Getting down is simple, as careful downclimbing returns you to solid ground without complex rappels or risks.
Flaming Doobries is perfect for climbers seeking to step off the beaten path without sacrificing the quality of movement and rock quality that Joshua Tree is famed for. It’s a call to those ready to engage with raw terrain, focused technique, and a rare quiet moment in a landscape that often hums with activity.
Be mindful that the approach trail has loose gravel and uneven terrain, and the rock can be dusty in shaded sections. Inspect all gear placements closely since some medium cams can fit loosely if rushed. Avoid climbing when the rock is cold or right after rain to prevent slipping.
Approach from Wonderland of Rocks trail, expect a 15-20 minute hike with some loose rock sections.
Climb is best in mid-morning to early afternoon when the SW-facing wall is warmed and dry.
Wear shoes with solid edging capability to manage the crack’s subtle footholds.
Carry plenty of water due to desert heat and limited shade on the approach.
Bring a trad rack focused on medium cams for secure placements along the crack. The rock is solid but certain placements require careful assessment for optimal protection.
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