"Flakes to Fresno offers a straightforward 30-foot trad climb featuring a striking left-leaning diagonal crack. Ideal for developing crack technique, this route rewards with solid placements and a satisfying physical climb in the quieter corner of Summit Blocks."
Flakes to Fresno stands out as an accessible and engaging trad route carved into the heart of the Summit Blocks area, just east of the more frequented crags near Bishop Peak. This single-pitch climb stretches roughly 30 feet, tracing a prominent left-leaning diagonal crack that invites you to test your crack climbing technique with a blend of jamming and subtle face moves. The crack, wide enough in sections to wrap your whole right side into its embrace, demands larger protection—perfect for those carrying an assortment of cams and hexes between 1 and 3.5 inches. Approach this climb as part of a full day’s outing: warm up on P-Wall via P-Crack or Route Canal before closing the day on Flakes, which offers a straightforward line ideal for solidifying fundamentals without unnecessary complications.
The wall presents a moderate challenge rated at 5.8, giving novices and intermediate climbers a chance to enjoy trad climbing without the stress of overly technical or thin moves. You'll want well-fitted climbing shoes that allow for subtle edging on the face sections, but mostly prepare for body jams and friction against the rock inside the crack. The rock texture is firm and weathered, providing reliable friction underfoot and steady holds along the crack edges. Ambient sounds of the surrounding foothills, mingled with distant bird calls and the occasional rustle of wind, enhance the focused rhythm of your upward movement.
Access to Summit Blocks is straightforward, with a solid enough trail arriving at an open base that simplifies gear setup and offers ample space for gear sorting and partner communication. The climb's exposure on the face side is minimal yet enough to keep you alert, while the crack offers a gratifying physical connection with the rock. Adequate hydration and the right timing—mid-morning to early afternoon to avoid the hottest sun—will bolster your experience, especially in warmer months common to San Luis Obispo’s Mediterranean climate.
For protection, bring a rack rich in larger cams and hexes. Smaller gear seldom finds a secure placement here, so prioritize those beefier pieces. The route’s protection placements are generally solid, though some require careful placement to maximize hold. Because it’s a popular spot, expect moderate traffic but enough solitude to appreciate the calm wilderness that chars the edges of the climb. Descending is a brief walk-off along friendly terrain, making it simple to shift gears from climbing to enjoying surrounding trails.
Whether you're tightening your crack technique or looking for a reliable lead to build confidence, Flakes to Fresno delivers classic trad climbing with a practical layout and comforting consistency. It’s less about fireworks and more about connecting with the rock in a setting that challenges and rewards within a compact, manageable pitch.
Some protection placements require mindful positioning—ensure your larger cams seat fully for secure placements. The route’s moderate exposure on the face side means staying focused on balance and footwork reduces fall risk.
Approach early to avoid afternoon heat on the face sections.
Warm up on nearby P-Wall climbs like P-Crack or Route Canal before attempting Flakes.
Wear climbing shoes suited for both edging on face holds and comfortable jamming.
Bring plenty of water, as shaded areas are limited during midday.
A rack loaded with cams and hexes from 1 to 3.5 inches is essential. Large pieces dominate the placements, and having these will ease securing yourself as you jam into the wide crack.
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