"Flakes offers a clean, engaging crack climb on a striking granite buttress at Zappa's Tooth, perfect for trad climbers honing their jams. This accessible 5.8 pitch combines solid protection with a straightforward approach and a scenic walk-off."
Flakes offers a straightforward yet rewarding introduction to trad climbing in the rugged Estes Park Valley, just off Colorado Highway 7. The route stands out as the first noticeable crack line running up the left side of a prominent formation known locally as the Cavity. From the base, climbers engage immediately with clean, solid flakes that rise steadily along the buttress, providing ample opportunities for hand and fist jams. The climb begins in a dihedral where you’ll find yourself wedging and stemming upward, a tactile dance against the rock that demands focus and technique. As you approach the roof, a test of subtle balance awaits: veer right to bypass the overhang and continue up to a spacious ledge that offers a moment to catch your breath and take in the surrounding forested slopes.'Flakes' then offers a choice — step left onto the face for a smoother finish or head right to tackle more flaky holds for a modest challenge before completing the climb.
This single-pitch, 125-foot route scores a solid 5.8, making it an approachable climb for trad beginners keen on refining their crack skills without being overwhelmed. The flakes are well-formed and reliable, though protection requires a hand to fist-sized rack. The route’s moderate difficulty and accessible approach attract climbers looking for quality climbing less than an hour from Estes Park.
The approach to the wall is practical and straightforward, beginning with an easy walk from the main highway trailhead. The terrain is mostly well-trodden, stretching through open woodlands punctuated by granite outcrops that seem to offer a quiet challenge to any adventurer passing by. Plan your climb mid-morning to early afternoon to take advantage of the sun warming these granite faces, especially in the cooler months. Due to the route’s southern exposure, late afternoon can bring lingering shadows and cooler temperatures.
Protection on Flakes requires some extra hand and fist-sized cams, as the crack sequence varies in width. Fixed gear is minimal here, so bringing a selective rack is necessary for safety and confidence. The rock quality is consistently solid, with only a few sections showing minor flakiness—nothing that demands major attention, but always keep awareness sharp.
After topping out, descent is a walk off to the south, making for a smooth and quick exit that avoids complicated rappels or tricky downclimbs. This simplicity enhances Flakes' appeal for climbers wanting a no-fuss day out in the Estes Park Valley.
Zappa's Tooth sits within the larger Estes Park wilderness area, a landscape marked by its dramatic granite formations and sweeping valley views. The area remains lightly trafficked compared to more popular Front Range crags, preserving a sense of quiet adventure. Whether you’re stepping into crack climbing for the first time or looking to enjoy a classic pitch with clean, crisp holds in a stunning environment, Flakes delivers with both confidence and character.
While protection is generally reliable, certain flake sections demand careful placement of hand and fist cams to avoid runouts. The roof forces some reachy moves—watch your balance here. Always double-check gear placements before proceeding, and be prepared for cooler temperatures later in the afternoon due to shade.
Start your climb mid-morning for optimal sun and warmth on this south-facing buttress.
Approach on well-marked trails from CO Hwy 7; expect 15-20 minutes of easy hiking.
Choose your finish left on the face for a smoother end or right for more flaky hand jams.
Carry plenty of water and dress in layers—weather can change quickly in the valley.
Bring a rack with extra hand and fist-sized cams to cover the variable widths of the crack. Minimal fixed gear means your protection choices are key to a confident ascent.
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