5.5, Trad
Saint John
Canada
"Five Easy Pieces is a single-pitch, moderate trad climb on McQuirks Mountain that challenges crack climbers with steady rock and straightforward protection. Its accessible line and scenic forest approach make it a perfect introduction to trad routes in New Brunswick’s quiet wilderness."
Five Easy Pieces offers a straightforward yet rewarding traditional climb on McQuirks Mountain’s Main Wall, Canada. Sitting just ten feet right of the popular Take Me to Your Leader route, this line quietly invites climbers to test a solid crack that steadily ascends the 100-foot cliff. The climb’s moderate 5.5 rating gives it broad appeal—challenging enough to sharpen basic crack skills while remaining accessible for those building confidence in Trad climbing. The rock here is steady and dependable, with natural fissures that guide your hands and feet upward through textured granite. Protection is straightforward, requiring a single rack up to 4 inches, suitable for placing reliable gear in the crack’s predictable placements. At the top, a bolted rap station waits, providing a reassuring endpoint and easy descent.
The approach to Five Easy Pieces is manageable, threading through open woodland and gentle slopes beneath McQuirks Mountain. This setting provides a quiet escape from busier climbing hubs further afield, and the surrounding forest preserves a calm atmosphere punctuated only by bird calls and the crunch of your boots on leaves. Expect a 15 to 20-minute hike on well-marked trails to reach the base, making it an efficient outing from nearby communities in New Brunswick.
Timing your climb is best in mild weather conditions, ideally late spring through early fall when the rock is dry and the forest flourishes with fresh green. Midday sun makes the wall comfortably warm but not scorching, as scattered trees at the base offer pockets of welcome shade. With a single pitch climb, Five Easy Pieces suits a half-day adventure, giving you ample time to savor the wholly satisfying feeling of threading gear and reaching the top.
Gear recommendations emphasize medium-sized cams and nuts, focusing on secure placements within the crack’s protective features. The single pitch accommodates climbers eager to refine their mental game—in particular, trusting gear placements and maintaining steady movement on moderate terrain. Beginners will appreciate the climb’s forgiving rating, while seasoned climbers can enjoy the route’s clean line and the ease of navigating protection without overcomplication.
Local tips include best approach routes, optimal times to avoid tree sap on gear, and reminders about variable weather typical for this region. As the climb is part of a larger wilderness zone, sound environmental stewardship is crucial—pack out what you bring in, tread lightly on the trail, and respect the natural environment surrounding the climb. This balance of accessible technical climbing and thoughtful environment interaction makes Five Easy Pieces a quietly compelling addition to any Trad climber’s New Brunswick list.
While the rock is solid, placements require careful assessment to ensure cams are fully seated. The approach trail is well-maintained but can become slippery after rain, so sturdy footwear with grip is essential.
Approach via the well-defined trail from the main parking area; expect 15-20 minutes of mostly flat hiking.
Late spring to early fall offers the driest and most stable rock conditions.
Watch for tree sap on gear placements near the base; clean gear regularly to ensure smooth cams.
Carry at least two liter bottles of water—there are no reliable water sources on the approach or descent.
Single rack up to 4 inches is recommended to protect the consistent crack. A standard trad rack covers the needs, with secure placements throughout. The bolted anchors at the top allow for safe rap descent.
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