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Fist Full of Puppies: A Bold Trad Route in Baja California Sur

Loreto, Baja California Sur Mexico
trad
left-facing corner
single pitch
loose rock caution
desert climbing
small roofs
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Fist Full of Puppies
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Fist Full of Puppies challenges climbers with an 80-foot left-facing corner on the granite face of Pilon De Lolita. This single-pitch trad climb demands precise protection and steady technique amid the desert’s rugged feel and coastal breeze."

Fist Full of Puppies: A Bold Trad Route in Baja California Sur

Fist Full of Puppies offers an unapologetically raw trad climbing experience carved into the rugged walls of Pilon De Lolita, nestled near the Loreto area of Baja California Sur. This 80-foot single pitch takes climbers into a left-facing corner that challenges both technique and nerve. Beginning with an exposed 15-foot face climb, the route demands careful foot placement and a confident reach to clip a solid nut nestled in a seam—your first line of defense against a dynamic move. The corner section itself rises steadily, weaving beneath small roofs that test your ability to read the rock and trust your protection.

This route bears the mark of a pioneering ascent, with just a single recorded send, so expect some loose rock and the unexpected. The terrain’s rough texture and natural features reward patient climbers with moments of flow amid the technical demands. Protection placement relies heavily on .5 to #3 Camelot cams, making a varied rack essential for safe progression. The climb finishes at a two-bolt anchor, ready for a secure top-rope set or a confident rap descent.

Arriving here means stepping into a striking environment where the desert heat is tempered by coastal breezes, and the granite walls bear the raw imprint of nature’s forces. The climb’s remote feel is balanced by accessible approach trails, allowing adventurers to focus on solving the sequence rather than the logistics. Morning ascents are favored to avoid the midday sun, with shade leaning into the corner for parts of the climb.

In practical terms, bring sturdy, well-fitting shoes with sticky rubber for friction on the face and corner’s subtle edges. Hydration is key—carry ample water and sun protection for the approach. The quiet wilderness around Pilon De Lolita invites reflection, but the rock demands full attention: loose holds and crumbly sections mean slow, deliberate moves.

Fist Full of Puppies is not a route for the faint-hearted but offers a pure trad experience in one of Mexico’s less-traveled climbing areas. It rewards those who come prepared and respectful of its raw conditions, delivering both the thrill of a bold route and the satisfaction of authentic adventure in Baja’s wild landscapes.

Climber Safety

Expect loose rock in sections, particularly near the small roofs. Move deliberately and test every hold before committing. The two-bolt anchor is solid but double-check gear before rappelling.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid heat; the corner gains partial shade by mid-morning.

Check holds carefully—loose rock is present due to limited ascents.

Bring a comfortable rack to cover small to large cams for diverse placements.

Carry ample water and sunscreen—the approach is exposed with limited shade.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9 PG13, this route feels on the solid side grade-wise but requires respect for loose rock and protection challenges. The crux resides in the early face section with a crucial nut placement, making the climb feel slightly harder than the number alone suggests. Compared to local Baja routes, it offers a more technical and exposed experience.

Gear Requirements

Carry a trad rack with .5 to #3 Camelot cams to protect cracks and corners. Two-bolt anchor at the top enables a secure rappel or top-rope setup.

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Tags

trad
left-facing corner
single pitch
loose rock caution
desert climbing
small roofs