"Fission Atomique challenges climbers with a powerful 100-foot single pitch that dances along an orange dihedral and a series of roofs. Combining technical trad protection with bold movement, this route is an excellent test of skill within Quebec's Southern Area."
Fission Atomique stakes its claim with a sharp electrical charge, offering climbers a single-pitch challenge that demands precision and commitment. Located in Quebec's Southern Area near Lac Long, this trad route takes the familiar start shared with Atomic and then diverges left, sliding into an orange-hued dihedral that beckons climbers towards a series of overhanging roofs. The route's movement flows along the right edge of these sequential roofs, requiring precise footholds and strategic use of gear to maintain control and momentum on the vertical canvas.
At about 100 feet in length, Fission Atomique is a compact but intense experience. The 5.12a rating signals a climb that tests power and technique without overwhelming endurance, perfect for climbers eager to sharpen their trad skills amidst rugged beauty. The rock’s texture provides solid friction underfoot, and the exposure to surrounding elements is enough to heighten focus without intimidation. As you ascend, the surrounding forested hills soften the horizon, and the cool air often hums through the cracks, pushing you to move swiftly and deliberately.
Protection is a critical part of what makes this route both manageable and serious. A sturdy sequence of camalots and X4 nuts live alongside twelve bolts toward the top, blending bolted security with natural gear placements. This layered protection demands attention to detail—placements must be assured before pushing past each key move, especially as the bulges approach. The line's nature encourages precise gear placements, rewarding climbers who come prepared with a varied rack, ensuring peace of mind on the steeper sections.
Access to Fission Atomique is straightforward: the approach follows well-trodden trails leading from Lac Long, threading through mixed woodland and granite outcroppings. Expect a moderate 20-minute hike with clear signposts, allowing you to conserve energy for the climb itself. Timing your ascent in late morning or early afternoon is ideal, as the wall receives balanced sunlight with enough shade to keep holds cool and manageable.
In pushing off the rock’s orange dihedral and threading through its roof sequence, Fission Atomique calls for a blend of bold movement and careful gear judgment. Whether you’re refining your trad game or adding a sharp 5.12a to your logbook, this route pulses with intention and unforgettable moments. The descent is straightforward—rappelling off fixed anchors at the top offers a safe and efficient return, leaving time to absorb the nearby rich wilderness or plan your next ascent.
Gear up with cams from small to medium sizes, and expect a well-protected but physically demanding climb that rewards both planning and execution. This is not just a climb; it’s a test of composure under pressure, a push through a vertical rhythm shaped by natural edges and human-made security. For climbers in Quebec seeking an adventure with clear-cut challenges and a strong connection to the rock, Fission Atomique is a fine electric current worth riding.
Carefully place gear before committing to roof moves, as some placements require extra attention and the transition between natural protection and bolts can be abrupt. The rock is generally sound but remain wary of loose flakes near the roof edges.
Approach via marked trail from Lac Long with about 20 minutes hiking through mixed terrain.
Start climbing during late morning or early afternoon for optimal sun and shade balance.
Bring a diverse cam rack—especially sizes from 0.2 to 3—to match the protection needs.
Use fixed anchors at the top for a safe and straightforward rappel descent.
Prepare a rack including Blue Camalot #3 for initial protection, Purple Camalot #0.5 past the first bolt, Yellow X4 #0.2, Red Camalot #1 before engaging the bolt section, and Grey X4 #0.4 placements along the crack. Bolts take over for the final pitches, ensuring reliable anchors to the top.
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