HomeClimbingFishy Business

Fishy Business: A Crisp Sport Climb in The Smoke Bluffs

Squamish, Canada
finger crack
slab
runout
single pitch
Squamish sport
Length: 90 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Fishy Business
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Fishy Business blends technical finger crack work with delicate slab climbing on Squamish’s famed granite. A single pitch sport route with thoughtful protection, this climb challenges precision and balance in a breathtaking natural setting."

Fishy Business: A Crisp Sport Climb in The Smoke Bluffs

The Smoke Bluffs, set against the dramatic backdrop of Squamish’s rugged granite cliffs, offers a playground of granite challenges, and Fishy Business stands out as a sport climb that demands focus and finesse. This 90-foot route begins with a distinctive dyke crack—an invitation to engage fingers and hands for a snug cam placement that’s essential just to reach the first bolt. Here, the rock’s texture shifts; bolts mark the way up an inviting but thoughtfully runout slab that leans slightly left, keeping climbers on their toes. The mix of crack technique and slab finesse requires steady footwork and a calm mind, rewarding with subtle balance moves and a gratifying sense of flow.

The rock surface, etched by nature yet polished from countless ascents, offers both grip and delicate slipperiness across its vertical face. Expect a sensory mix of smooth stone and the whisper of the wind brushing nearby trees. The Smoke Bluffs area itself feels alive—trees clinging to ledges, birds calling from above, and the faint hum of activity from the town below. A little solitude here highlights the connection between climber and rock, punctuated with moments of breath-catching exposure and quiet satisfaction at the anchor.

This route’s 5.10d PG13 rating reflects a challenge balanced by cautious protection—placements can be spaced out, especially on the slab sections, so maintaining composure is key. Fishy Business is perfect for those looking to sharpen slab skills under sport-climbing security while appreciating subtle tectonic formations carved into the granite face. The climb suits anyone prepared for technical finger crack work combined with delicate slab balance.

Access is straightforward, with well-marked trails leading through forested paths to the base. The approach offers a gentle warming rhythm, threading through fir and cedar until the granite face emerges. Timing your climb in the morning or late afternoon yields the most comfortable conditions: sun-bleached rock earlier or cooling shade later. Plan for standard Squamish weather patterns—gear up with sticky rubber shoes for the slab, bring finger tape, and carry a small cam to secure your start. Hydration is crucial; though the route itself is short, the approach and exposure can quickly elevate fatigue.

In short, Fishy Business is a concise yet memorable sport climb that rewards technical precision and offers a taste of Squamish’s climbing spirit—raw, thoughtful, and just challenging enough to demand respect while inviting progression.

Climber Safety

Although the route is mostly bolted, the slab sections can be moderately runout, so placing attention on foot placement and controlled movement is essential. The finger cam at the start must be secure before clipping the first bolt to avoid falls early on. Watch for slick patches on the slab after rain or morning dew.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Carry finger tape and practice crack technique for the start.

Climb in morning or late afternoon for best sun and temperature conditions.

Stick with shoes that offer excellent grip for slab balance.

Stay attentive on slab sections—bolt spacing requires careful pacing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d PG13 grade accurately reflects a climb that combines technical finger crack moves with slab climbing where protection thins out slightly. The finger crack start feels straightforward but requires precise cam placement to safely reach the first bolt. The slab sections are more mentally demanding due to spacing, making the grade feel stiff in parts, though manageable for climbers comfortable on vertical granite. Compared to other Smoke Bluffs climbs, Fishy Business offers an excellent mix of crack and slab, sitting just a notch above mid-level sport routes in mental challenge.

Gear Requirements

Bring a finger-sized cam to place in the initial crack before clipping the first bolt. Beyond that, the route is fully bolted, but some sections on slab feel runout; precise footwork and a calm head help on these parts.

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Tags

finger crack
slab
runout
single pitch
Squamish sport