HomeClimbingFirst Stage

First Stage: A Crisp Warmup on the Echo Lakes Corridor

South Lake Tahoe,California ,United States
sport climbing
warmup
single pitch
granite
runout
echo lakes
5.9
short approach
directional anchor
Grade: 5.9
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
First Stage
Aspect
South Facing

First Stage

5.9, Sport, TR

South Lake Tahoe

California ,United States

Overview

"First Stage offers a measured warmup on a friendly granite face near Echo Lakes. With solid holds and a subtle crux, it’s ideal for climbers sharpening technique in a scenic, accessible setting."

First Stage: A Crisp Warmup on the Echo Lakes Corridor

Set against the rugged backdrop of the Echo Lakes region near Lake Tahoe, First Stage offers a straightforward climb that balances approachability with subtle challenge. This single-pitch sport climb spreads across a less-than-vertical face, featuring large, positive holds that invite movement without overexertion. As a warmup route in this diverse climbing corridor, it gently tests your technique without demanding strenuous effort—yet don’t let the apparent ease fool you. A thin crux sneaks in around the third bolt, adding texture to the climb and encouraging precise footwork and composure.

Approaching the route is a brief, uncomplicated walk from the Berkeley Camp Rocks area, tucked within the forested transition towards Echo Summit. The path is well-trodden, framed by firs and pines whose whispering branches keep the trail cool in summer and scatter golden light during autumn afternoons. The climb unfolds over 50 feet of granite with a subtle overhang, where the rock’s firm texture demands firm grips and careful care in placing your feet.

Protection consists of five bolts, but be mindful between the first and second bolts—this section has a stretch on 5.6 terrain that’s surprisingly runout. A fall here could result in a ground strike, so considering a small cam or nut is wise for added security. The shared two-bolt anchor serves the route and its 5.11 neighbor to the right, but note there are no chains; long slings are essential if you plan to top-rope. A directional anchor on the last bolt is recommended to avoid rope drag and promote smooth descent.

Climbers seeking a clear, practical warmup will appreciate First Stage’s crisp line and easy access. The approach is short and well-maintained, providing a straightforward transition from hike to climb. After topping out, exit is equally simple with a gentle walk-off beneath the open sky and towering pines. This climb’s moderate difficulty allows for skill sharpening without high stakes, perfect for those tuning up before tackling the more demanding challenges nearby or simply collecting a fresh tick on a scenic day out.

Echo Lakes itself pulses quietly around the route, where mountain air carries the subtle scent of pine and granite, and the distant shimmer of water calls for a cooling pause post-climb. Timing your ascent mid-morning or late afternoon lets the granite warm under soft sun, but keeps the heat manageable. Hydration and solid foothold awareness remain key, especially if you choose to supplement the runout with gear.

First Stage stands as a reliable step into this climbing corridor—ready to welcome you with solid stone and sensible protection. It’s a route that respects beginner and intermediate climbers’ needs while hinting at the tighter focus and precision demanded by the crux. Practical, accessible, and quietly demanding, it’s a fine introduction to the Echo Lakes climbing scene.

Climber Safety

The runout between the first and second bolts puts climbers at risk of hitting the ground if they fall without additional protection. Adding a small cam or nut is highly advised. Note that the anchor has no chains, so plan to bring long slings or tat to build a safe top-rope setup.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.9
TypeSport, TR
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Add small gear in the runout section to avoid dangerous falls near the start.

Bring long slings for efficient top-rope anchoring and smoother rope management.

Ascend mid-morning or late afternoon for optimal granite temperature and comfort.

After climbing, a short, easy walk brings you safely back to the trailhead.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, First Stage offers a grade that feels mostly straightforward but with a slight bump at the thin crux near the third bolt. The runout early on adds a mental challenge uncommon at this level, making the grade feel borderline stiffer in practice. Compared to other local 5.9s, it demands more focus on gear placement and foot precision, particularly for climbers transitioning from gym routes or less adventurous settings.

Gear Requirements

Five bolts protect the climb, but watch the section between the first and second bolts where a fall could be serious; consider adding a small cam or nut here. Bring long slings for top-rope set up since the two-bolt anchor has no chains. A directional anchor at the last bolt is recommended to reduce rope drag.

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Tags

sport climbing
warmup
single pitch
granite
runout
echo lakes
5.9
short approach
directional anchor