"First Blood offers a strong blend of technical jams and smooth moves on solid Colorado dolomite. This well-protected 5.8 sport climb at Menses Prow serves up a classic single-pitch experience with engaging features, ideal for those stepping confidently into moderate routes."
Located just right of the prominent California Ethics Pinnacle in the dramatic landscape of Shelf Road, First Blood stands out as a compelling sport climb that balances challenge with accessibility. This 70-foot route traces a clean crack leading to a bulge, which demands precise movement before easing into a corner. From there, the climb sweeps around an overhang and travels rightward toward the established two-bolt anchor. Despite its seemingly intimidating profile, First Blood’s 5.8 rating holds true, offering a straightforward but satisfying experience for moderate climbers.
The rock surface here is adorned with smooth jams and solid holds, giving each move confidence. Protection is well-placed with 8 to 9 bolts along the line, though the section just before the first bolt requires extra care due to a slightly extended runout. The final stretch approaching the anchor loses a bit of hold quality, demanding alert footwork and composure. This route is an exceptional choice for climbers progressing through the 5.8 level, providing the right mix of technical movement, jams, and a taste of vertical exposure without overly complicating the effort.
Menses Prow itself is a vibrant sector within the Shelf Road climbing zone, known for accessible moderate routes perfect for newer climbers or groups looking for trusted climbs that build skills safely. Its proximity to Canon City makes it an excellent day trip destination where adventure meets dependable rock quality. First Blood often receives praise from repeat visitors who appreciate its balance of steady holds and pockets of challenge.
When planning your ascent, expect a short but engaging approach through moderate terrain inside this semi-arid Colorado setting. With an elevation flirtation that encourages steady breathing but no major altitude concerns, hydration and sun protection remain important. The route’s west-facing wall catches afternoon sun, making morning climbs cooler and more pleasant during warmer months.
Gear up with a standard sport climbing rack focused on quickdraws—eight to ten is ideal—and don’t overlook a solid belay device along with a helmet. While the fixed bolts simplify protection needs, the runout near the initial bolt means pacing and confidence in clipping are essential. Don’t rush this sequence and keep your weight balanced to handle the sometimes smooth rock texture.
In essence, First Blood offers a snapshot of Shelf Road’s approachable charm: a chance to push moderately hard moves, enjoy quality rock, and soak in the rugged Colorado landscape. It’s a prime candidate for anyone building confidence on sport routes—delivered with clarity, honest challenge, and reliable safety features that foster growth and a deepening connection to the rock.
Be cautious of the runout section before the first bolt and maintain deliberate clipping technique. Watch for small loose rock near the base and in the final moves, where holds become less secure. Wearing a helmet and checking rock conditions before climbing is advised.
Approach early morning to avoid afternoon heat on the west-facing wall.
Carry at least 10 quickdraws to manage the bolt spacing comfortably.
Watch footing near the top as holds become less bomber when moving right to the anchors.
Helmet recommended due to loose scree near the base and occasional rockfall.
Eight to nine bolts secure the 70-foot climb, topped by a two-bolt anchor. While bolt placements are reliable, note the slight runout before the first bolt demands cautious clipping and precise movement.
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