"Finnacle offers a measured slab climb in Red Rock Canyon Open Space, blending steady technical movement with reliable protection. Perfect for climbers refining footwork, it rewards attention and smooth balance on a broad, low-angle face."
Finnacle emerges as a direct and accessible sport climb tucked within the striking expanses of Red Rock Canyon Open Space near Colorado Springs. Its 115-foot length commands attention not through flashy overhangs or complex face sequences, but by inviting climbers to engage with a broad, low-angle slab that steadily leans into the sky. The climb’s straightforward 5.8 rating offers both a manageable challenge for those eager to refine slab technique and a solid warm-up for stronger climbers preparing for more demanding routes in the area.
From the moment you step onto the route, the route’s subtle character reveals itself: the slab’s surface is firm and steady, requiring mindful footwork and smooth balance. You ascend slightly right of center on a gently inclined face, where five well-placed bolts guide your progress to a two-bolt anchor positioned higher than older topo versions suggest. The adjustment means a 70-meter rope or twin rope setup is essential to safely lower off without crowding at the base.
The approach itself offers easy access from the Red Rock Canyon parking area, a quick amble through well-maintained trails framed by the open air and sun-warmed juniper. Environmental conditions here favor morning or late afternoon climbs, as the east-facing face catches sun early and offers cooling shade before midday intensifies. The steady breeze across the open space seems to encourage each move, brushing against skin and balancing the heat from friction on the rock.
Protection on Finnacle is straightforward but demands respect — bolts are closely spaced, yet the slab climbing invites a focus on balance over power. Dry shoes with sticky rubber are a must, as the nature of slab climbing rewards delicate edging and confident slab smearing. The clean, relatively low-angled profile doesn’t present bold cruxes; instead, the sustained nature makes it as much a test of concentration and rhythm as pure strength.
When sending Finnacle, expect a walk-off descent path that’s short and clear, leading back through abundant sagebrush and hardy pines. This route fits perfectly into a day spent exploring Red Rock Canyon Open Space, easily paired with nearby circuits or other climbs in the 'Whale' formation to maximize your outing.
Support for this route and others hinges on ongoing stewardship; consider purchasing Stewart Green’s guidebook for detailed insights and to help maintain the delicate balance between climbing access and natural preservation. Finnacle stands out as a modest yet rewarding climb that welcomes adventurous spirit with practical demands — ideal for climbers who appreciate learning slab movement within a strikingly open Colorado landscape.
The anchor bolts were moved higher than previously noted, which means climbers need longer ropes to safely lower off. Ensure your rope length matches the 70m recommendation to avoid dangling close to the ground or needing awkward belay positions.
Use a 70m rope or double ropes for the lowered rappel to avoid crowding at the base.
Climb in the morning or late afternoon to avoid direct midday sun on the east-facing slab.
Stick to minimal chalk use to preserve the rock’s natural texture and grip.
Support the area by purchasing Stewart Green's guidebook for detailed and updated route information.
Five bolts lead to a two-bolt anchor set higher than older guides indicate, requiring either a 70-meter rope or double ropes for safe lowering. Sticky climbing shoes and a standard sport rack suffice.
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