HomeClimbingFinger Locks or Cedar Box

Finger Locks or Cedar Box

Joshua Tree, California United States
crack climbing
trad
single pitch
desert climb
jam crack
finger crack
Length: 30 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Finger Locks or Cedar Box
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Finger Locks or Cedar Box is a focused trad climb on Middle Creeper Rock, featuring a sharp 30-foot crack that demands precise jams and practical gear placement. Set in the dry beauty of Joshua Tree, this route invites climbers to engage deeply with classic granite crack techniques in an open desert setting."

Finger Locks or Cedar Box

Finger Locks or Cedar Box beckons climbers with its slender crack slicing through the southeast face of Middle Creeper Rock, offering a precise test of technique on solid Joshua Tree granite. This single-pitch 5.9 route demands attentive jams and delicate footwork, rewarding those who engage fully with the crack’s inviting sinews. From the base, the line itself is visible as a narrow fissure peeling upward over 30 feet of granite, framed by the sprawling Live Oak Picnic Area below and shaped by the desert sun. The climb’s approach crosses gentle desert scrub and rocky ground within the reconstructed wilderness of Joshua Tree, where the harsh landscape quiets, punctuated by wind-brushed pines and the occasional call of distant birds.

The route begins at a distinctive boulder, which, if climbed, lowers the initial difficulty to a mellow 5.5, but many choose to start directly in the crack to embrace the steady challenge. Protection is straightforward but requires a single rack up to 3 inches, placed carefully along the tight seam to secure the ascent. The quality of the rock ensures solid placements with minimal loose flakes, yet its exposed nature above demands focus—each move asks for a balance of power and finesse as you slide hands into the crack’s narrow folds.

This crack climb commands respect from climbers who appreciate the tactile conversation with stone. The sunlight hitting the face in the late afternoon highlights every dusting of grip and chalk mark, while open views across the Joshua Tree Valley invite moments of pause before pushing upward. The moderate elevation and desert conditions mean hydration is key, especially during warmer months, and good rubber on your shoes will make every foot jam count. Timing your climb in the early morning or late afternoon helps avoid overheating and spotting snakes near the approach trail.

Gear-wise, the route’s protection is simple but not to be underestimated: secure placements prevent long falls on this steep, clean wall. The sparse traffic means you’ll likely enjoy solitude, and the natural setting rewards those who come prepared with water, sun protection, and a light daypack. Those new to crack climbing will find Finger Locks a solid introduction to hand and finger jams, with a clear sequence that improves with practice. Veterans will appreciate the route’s straightforward but honest toughness and the chance to savor unhurried movement on classic Joshua Tree granite.

Approach through the Live Oak Picnic Area is an easy hike under open sky, with a subtle path weaving through low bushes and sandy patches. GPS coordinates (34.0000, -116.04575) will guide you to the right sector on South Creeper Rock, where this route stands out as a favored gem for trad climbers looking to sharpen crack skills away from crowds. In all, Finger Locks or Cedar Box balances a palpable sense of adventure with accessible logistics, making it a rewarding outing for climbers tuned into the rhythm of stone and desert air.

Climber Safety

Ensure all gear is securely placed; the thin crack offers few wide cams and loose rock warns caution near the base boulder. Approach during dry conditions only, as wet or damp granite reduces friction and increases slipping risks.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the midday desert heat and reduce risk from local wildlife.

Use climbing shoes with sticky rubber to maximize foot jams in the narrow crack.

Hydrate well—there is no water source at the approach or climb.

Watch for loose rock near the base boulder; test placements carefully before weighting.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating feels accurate and demands technical finger and hand jams rather than sustained endurance. The initial flake boulder reduces difficulty to 5.5 if avoided, but the crack itself offers solid protection and a consistent challenge without surprises. Compared to adjacent routes in Joshua Tree, this line provides a clean, classic crack experience with straightforward moves and a mildly stiff crux.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack sized up to 3 inches for well-spaced placements in the thin crack. A single rack suffices but ensure gear can fit snugly in narrow jams to protect the entire length. Anchor gear is solid and straightforward.

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Tags

crack climbing
trad
single pitch
desert climb
jam crack
finger crack