"Finger Jockey offers a 90-foot single-pitch test of precise, technical climbing on clean granite in Pine Creek Canyon. Its steady succession of bulges and roofs challenges finger strength and balance without demanding raw power."
Finger Jockey stands out on Fashion Slab as a must-experience climb for those craving precise, technical movement on vertical to low-angle stone. Located in the Pine Creek Canyon area near Bishop, California, this 90-foot single-pitch route demands steady focus as you navigate blocky ledges before slipping into a rhythm of continuous technical climbing. Starting with a scramble to the first bolt, climbers encounter two challenging bulges and a series of mini-roofs that test finger strength and body positioning without overwhelming power moves. The climb culminates in a right-facing corner leading up to a surprisingly manageable third roof, but the real test waits at the crux near the seventh bolt, where committing to a subtle sequence separates the confident from the cautious.
The granite here feels alive under your hands—gritty yet sculpted, where balance and finger finesse reign. Though the protection consists of 11 bolts and a mussy hook anchor, placing gear is not a concern, allowing climbers to focus fully on the movement. As you ascend, the immediate canyon walls seem to close around you, filtering the Sierra sun into dappled light that flickers over the route's features. The moderate height and technical nature make Finger Jockey equally appealing to those stepping up beyond beginner stages yet seeking a climb that demands smart climbing rather than brute strength.
For visitors coming from Bishop or further afield, this climb offers classic Sierra granite without requiring a remote approach. The scramble up to the start is short but blocky—sturdy footwear with reliable grip is a must. Spring and fall offer ideal temperatures when the rock holds just enough warmth against the crisp mountain air. Summer sun hits the slab in the afternoon, so starting early in the day is advised. The immediate surroundings hold scattered pine and scrub brush, offering brief respite and visual variety as you rest between moves.
With a moderate star rating averaging 2.8, Finger Jockey is a fun test of technical skill, especially for climbers looking to sharpen finger locks and manage tricky sequences on sport routes. Experienced climbers can enjoy the crux’s challenge while newcomers get an accessible introduction to alpine-style technical climbing. Bring a water bottle to stay hydrated on the short approach and climb. And don’t underestimate the importance of tight shoes—the precision needed to thrive here leaves little margin for slippage.
In sum, Finger Jockey delivers a concise, techy climb framed by the rugged Pine Creek canyonlands. It invites climbers to tune into the tactile experience of moving rock by rock, bolt by bolt, combining a practical challenge with the quiet beauty of the Sierra Eastside. Whether gearing up after a long day or starting the morning with fresh arms, this route stands ready to test and refine your climbing technique in a setting that feels both wild and accessible.
The initial scramble to the first bolt involves blocky terrain which can be loose in spots—take care with hand and footholds. The roof sections require controlled movement; avoid rushing to prevent falls since protection is fixed but spaced for moderate runouts.
Approach requires scrambling over blocky ledges; wear sturdy shoes with good grip.
Start early to avoid the afternoon sun hitting the slab directly during summer months.
Bring plenty of water for the approach and climb as shade is limited.
Tight climbing shoes will help maintain secure foot placements on technical holds.
Equipped with 11 bolts and a mussy hook anchor, Finger Jockey requires no additional gear placements. Climbers can focus entirely on movement and body positioning.
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