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Finger Eleven at Simpson Wall

Welsford, Canada
finger crack
single pitch
tree anchor
beginner-friendly
traditional gear
northeast aspect
forest approach
Length: 45 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Finger Eleven
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Finger Eleven presents an accessible yet engaging 45-foot trad climb at Simpson Wall, where a finger crack and natural flakes offer secure moves and solid protection. Perfect for novices looking to build crack skills or anyone craving a straightforward ascent in a serene forest setting."

Finger Eleven at Simpson Wall

Finger Eleven offers a refreshing introduction to traditional climbing in New Brunswick’s often underrated Simpson Wall. Located on the right-hand edge of a substantial yellow birch, this one-pitch route stretches 45 feet along a prominent flake before threading into a diagonal finger crack that demands both finesse and steady hand jams. The climb’s moderate 5.4 rating invites climbers to engage with natural features—ring locks and delicate finger jams—without feeling overwhelmed. As you ascend, the rock’s texture gives a satisfying grip underfoot, while the forest around you provides a quiet pulse of life. The crack system feels alive, subtly challenging you to maintain balance and controlled tension while its angles shift ever so slightly, guiding you just right of the nearby Stone Temple Pilots route. Protection consists mainly of a standard rack with secure placements along the crack, culminating in a reliable tree anchor to top out safely. This route is perfect for climbers refining crack climbing technique or those seeking a straightforward pitch that blends nature’s rugged character with accessible protection. Approaching Finger Eleven takes about 15 minutes on a well-maintained trail through gentle underbrush. The area’s latitude at 45.44 degrees north ensures a temperate climate most of the year, with afternoon shade making summer ascents comfortable. Keep in mind the wall’s northeast aspect favors mid-morning to early afternoon climbing, while spring and fall offer ideal temperatures and fewer insects. After topping out, a short, clear descent returns climbers safely to the trailhead. Whether you are sharpening traditional skills or simply savoring a solid climb amid peaceful forest surroundings, Finger Eleven at Simpson Wall stands as an exemplary route where natural features and thoughtful climbing converge.

Climber Safety

While the route’s protection placements are generally solid, gear sizes can be specific—finger-sized cams and nuts secure best. Be cautious on the flake sections where foot placements can feel less settled, especially if the rock is damp. The tree anchor is reliable but double-check knots and webbing for wear.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length45 feet

Local Tips

Start just right of the large yellow birch to find the main flake and crack system.

Mid-morning to early afternoon offers the best light and comfortable temperatures.

Spring through fall provides the most stable conditions; avoid winter approaches due to slippery rock and trail mud.

Wear shoes with good edges to manage delicate placements along the crack’s variations.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.4
Quality
Consensus:Finger Eleven sits firmly at 5.4, a grade that feels consistent throughout the pitch without unexpected cruxes. The difficulty remains approachable for novices, with an emphasis on steady hand jams and ring locks rather than brute strength. Compared to nearby routes, its grade feels true and less taxing, making it a fine warm-up or a solid confidence builder.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack covers all protection needs, with placements favoring finger-sized gear and ring locks. The climb finishes securely anchored to a sturdy tree, so no fixed gear is required. Bringing a rope suitable for top-roping or leading is essential.

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Tags

finger crack
single pitch
tree anchor
beginner-friendly
traditional gear
northeast aspect
forest approach