HomeClimbingFinal Solution

Final Solution: A Technical Trad Climb on Der Zerkle in the Flatirons

Boulder, Colorado United States
crack climbing
overhang
single pitch
trad gear
technical
south facing
high friction
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Final Solution
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Final Solution presents a demanding trad crack climb just right of Absolution on Der Zerkle. With sustained gear placements and a pumpy overhanging crux, this 80-foot route offers a rewarding test of precision and power in Boulder’s iconic Flatirons."

Final Solution: A Technical Trad Climb on Der Zerkle in the Flatirons

Final Solution unfolds just a few feet to the right of the well-known Absolution route on Der Zerkle, offering a focused and technical 80-foot climb that tests both finesse and strength. The route starts with a narrow right-facing dihedral crack that challenges climbers to find confident placements on small cams and stoppers while navigating tight moves. As you ascend, the crack gradually opens, revealing a slender slot with slivers of daylight slicing through—it’s an intriguing visual hint of the climb’s evolving nature, though too tight to pass through. Gear placements here demand precision; the crack can be exacting, rewarding those who trust in a well-stocked rack up to 2 inches. The climb’s highlight awaits just past this point: a powerful overhanging crux where firm, juggy holds invite a combination of technique and stamina. The move feels pumpy, a testament to the sustained effort needed on this exposed section. It’s remarkable that the route’s first free solo ascent was completed by Jim Erickson, underscoring both its boldness and the confidence skilled climbers can bring to the challenge.

Der Zerkle’s rock feels solid, offering dependable friction and secure placements, but the absence of fixed anchors means top-roping requires extra preparation and careful anchor construction. Approach options for descent head north or south; the northern descent is generally preferred for its ease, while the southern route demands added caution and footwork. Located in the central section of the Flatirons near Boulder, Colorado, this climb nestles in a landscape where sharp sandstone edges rise against wide-open skies, combining raw technical climbing with an outdoor spirit that invites focused adventure.

For anyone looking to push their trad skills on a moderate but compelling climb, Final Solution provides a compact outing with a satisfying crux and gear challenges that hone your rack-building and crack-climbing technique. Bring steady shoes with solid edging ability and tape for the hands as the crack’s texture can be abrasive. Timing your climb for early morning or late afternoon lets you avoid the peak sun exposure on the south-facing wall, keeping fingers fresher and the rock cooler. Hydration is key here; the approach and descent can be warm under Colorado’s high sun, so pack enough water to stay balanced and alert.

In short, this route blends measured risk and gear-savvy moves in a classic Boulder setting, offering an accessible yet engaging challenge for trad climbers ready to sharpen their edge and revel in the focused intensity of crack climbing.

Climber Safety

No fixed anchors at the top means careful anchor building is required; the rock is sound but the approach to the anchors demands attention. The southern descent is steeper and trickier—only attempt if comfortable with exposed downclimbing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid intense afternoon sun on the south-facing wall.

Tape your hands; the crack’s sandstone can be rough on skin.

Prefer the northern descent route for an easier and safer downclimb.

Check your rack carefully—small cams and stoppers are critical for protection.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 grade feels true to standard with sustained technical moves throughout. The overhanging crux pumps the forearms more than expected, adding a physical test beyond the moderate crack climbing. Compared to nearby routes in the Flatirons, Final Solution leans on precise gear placements instead of friction slabs, making it slightly more demanding in protection strategy but accessible to experienced trad climbers.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack up to 2 inches is essential; the crack takes stoppers and small cams well. No fixed anchors on top so bring gear to build a solid anchor for top roping or descent.

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Tags

crack climbing
overhang
single pitch
trad gear
technical
south facing
high friction